_GOTOBOTTOM
Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
annealing
MichaelD413
Visit this Community
Ohio, United States
Member Since: June 03, 2011
entire network: 163 Posts
KitMaker Network: 28 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 - 08:30 PM UTC
I myself have always annealed my PE until it glows red but I have noticed on more than a few occasions other modelers who claim it is not necessary to heat PE until it turns red. Opinions?
edmund
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: November 10, 2014
entire network: 668 Posts
KitMaker Network: 211 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 01:27 AM UTC
You don't want the PE to go dead soft which is what happens when it glows red . You just want a change of color , there's still some body left in the brass but workable , specialy if you are rolling hinges . Never use too big a flame also .
ahandykindaguy
Visit this Community
Alberta, Canada
Member Since: August 20, 2008
entire network: 1,295 Posts
KitMaker Network: 93 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 02:48 AM UTC
I have not used much PE myself, and am curious if you could use the oven? Would it get the brass hit enough without over cooking it as it were?

edmund
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: November 10, 2014
entire network: 668 Posts
KitMaker Network: 211 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 04:29 AM UTC
Oven would take too long most 1/35 scale PE a lighter would suffice or you could buy a micro butane torch they are a glorified lighter but is a lot hotter . Some of them you can melt gold or silver and do jewelry repairs . Sometimes you don't want to anneal the whole part just the section you are working on . Plus annealing the whole part causes oxidation and if you want to solder after wards you have to clean down to the bare brass . If your want to get serious about PE you got to get yourself a fiberglass eraser Faber Castell 180300 works great for cleaning the brass and the solder afterwards . It's fiber glass so be carefull .
ahandykindaguy
Visit this Community
Alberta, Canada
Member Since: August 20, 2008
entire network: 1,295 Posts
KitMaker Network: 93 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 08:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Oven would take too long most 1/35 scale PE a lighter would suffice or you could buy a micro butane torch they are a glorified lighter but is a lot hotter . Some of them you can melt gold or silver and do jewelry repairs . Sometimes you don't want to anneal the whole part just the section you are working on . Plus annealing the whole part causes oxidation and if you want to solder after wards you have to clean down to the bare brass . If your want to get serious about PE you got to get yourself a fiberglass eraser Faber Castell 180300 works great for cleaning the brass and the solder afterwards . It's fiber glass so be carefull .


Not intending to take over this thread, but thanks Edmund for the sound advise. I will be sure to give PE a try sooner than later...

MichaelD413
Visit this Community
Ohio, United States
Member Since: June 03, 2011
entire network: 163 Posts
KitMaker Network: 28 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 05:46 PM UTC
yeah, the figerglass pencils are great even though I always seem to get stuck with a loose fiber which can sometimes take hours to get it out...they are also really good for cleaning up glue marks from plastic cement...I like to build neat so that is one of my favorite tools
edmund
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: November 10, 2014
entire network: 668 Posts
KitMaker Network: 211 Posts
Posted: Thursday, December 04, 2014 - 12:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

yeah, the figerglass pencils are great even though I always seem to get stuck with a loose fiber which can sometimes take hours to get it out...they are also really good for cleaning up glue marks from plastic cement...I like to build neat so that is one of my favorite tools
This is the time you need to get a good pair of tweezers and a magnifier .
 _GOTOTOP