The trick with any epoxies is to first rough shape, then start refining details as it sets, or after it has set. Use wet tools: toothpicks, probes, spatulas etc to form better shapes while it's still pliable. Then if needed, you can go back and sand or file when it has fully cured. There's 3 distinct stages to milliput: spongy/rubbery initially, firm as it cures and hard when cured. A little experimentation will determine how much time you have to wait for the the kind of tool to be used.
I made a barrel the following way:
Roughed the taper of the barrel with different tube segments.

Let the milliput set for a few minutes, then rolled out a thin sheet with the help of talc, wrapped the barrel, trimmed off excess and rolled the barrel in the talc to feather it out some. The talc dries out the milliput a bit, this makes trimming excess off pretty easy. As it set, I'd go back and roll/trim a little more so I'd have less sanding to do later.

After it had cured, wet sanded and checked for gaps.

More primer and final sanding.

If your milliput is absolutely crumbly even when mixed in the right ratios, then it's a bad batch. Water might save it, it might not. It should be very soft and sticky at first. A bonus tip: use water to make a slurry and you can then brush that into gaps or build layers. There is very little shrinkage and it cures rock hard as well.
Kimmo