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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
Monogram 1/32nd tracks out of the box
DPStanks
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United States
Member Since: May 14, 2014
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 - 04:12 PM UTC
I've got a Monogram 1/32nd scale M4A1 that has come along beautifully out of the box. Actually the "Screamin' Mimi" w/o the rocket launcher. I've done everything but "rubberize" (paint) the bogey tires which will go well with a Railroad Colors brushpaint. I'd say what soft black I'm using but I tried to clean the label with brushcleaner and took the color code off with the paint. Anyway paint/finish will not be a problem. I'm more concerned with the appearance in terms of "stretch an' hang, of the track within the wheels. The material causes them to want to "float" stiffly an' thus defy gravity. I'm thinking either I peg the at points from the hull sides with straight pins, or that there's a chemical solution that will soften the tracks for better forming around the bogeys with fingertips and whatever styrene cement gets the highest recommendation for this particular application. Needless to say, whatever I do I'd like it to be something that's been tried, and tried successfully, and still, can be undone! This kit and it's inherent parts are 40 years old!
TankSGT
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Member Since: July 25, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, May 24, 2014 - 09:36 PM UTC
The Monogram tracks are resistant to most model solvents. Pinning or cyano-acrylic glue might work best. Glue to the tops of the return rollers and skids. Shortening the track by a block might help. If memory serves it was too long. The other issue is the end connectors on the block instead of in between them. Its still a fun kit to build.
Make sure there is no paint on the joint or it won't hold.
Tom
barkingdigger
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
ARMORAMA
#013
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Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 05:51 AM UTC
If you really wanna go "Old School" you could drill two little holes in the track above each return roller, and use a loop of thread around the roller (at the back, where it can't be seen) to hold the track down. Definitely shorten them a bit so they are snug around the sprocket & idler...

You might also need to tie the ends together since the tracks cannot be glued with anything safe for home use! (I think mine were "heat welded" with a screwdriver over a candle, but it WAS thirty years ago...)
DPStanks
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Posted: Monday, June 02, 2014 - 09:09 AM UTC
Thanks, all your help is sound. I'm goin' to drop that link, train a drop between the idlers and glue on the top of the idlers with one oif three glues I've got on deck lol!
Thanks, Doug
DPStanks
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Posted: Monday, June 02, 2014 - 09:16 AM UTC
Yep, these were "heat welded" apparently something like you described before the kit came to me! I may try tying tracks as you describe in the future, as I frequently make my primary joint thia way, with success. I'm going to train the tracks to hang between the idlers and glue to the tops of the idlers. Thanks, Doug
chumpo
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Member Since: August 30, 2010
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Posted: Monday, June 02, 2014 - 10:53 AM UTC
Ever considered the black RTV that you can get at the automotive store . The ones that come in a tube .
DPStanks
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Posted: Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 03:27 AM UTC
well, when I say "train the tracks" I'm talking about placing them temporarily in position on the idlers and road wheels exaggerating the tension to hold a hanging position when fixed and glued. Would RTV provide a pliability that I would have sought otherwise (gluing and pinning in position). I dunno this time or not I appreciate the suggestion as now I'll have to try and see what effect it will have. Thanks!
chumpo
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Posted: Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 10:33 AM UTC
The RTV should be pliable .
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