I need help. I have no idea what is available on the market for PE. Bending, cutting , gluing ,magnification, welding lol
Plz add some links or discuss your techniques so I don't feel so flustered & newbish.
This may help others who are in the same boat.

To start with, get a set of xuron etch cutters (approx US$ 20) and a Tamiya diamond dust covered file (US$20).
Just cutting the bits cleanly and filing away the cut nibs is half the battle.

with these you'll need eye protection and magnification, optivosor works for me.

To start with a flat metal ruler and razor blades will do for most folding, a pair of flat jawed pliers are good and cheap early investment. Flat brass stock from K&S works here too.

Eventually a folding tool, etchmate, hold and hold, whatever but to start those will do.
Micro mark has some machinists 90deg blocks that work well for forming box corners

Gator grip glue, sold through a guy over on the modelshipwrights part of the site, is a water based glue with good adhesion , decent working time and water cleanup that works for 85% of non-load bearing assemblies.
Plain old superglue works, but has no shear strength.

Eventually you'll want to solder, but a $10 Radioshack iron, flux and silver solder will do the trick there. But that's a way down the road.

Most of this stuff (except the Tamiya file) are available on Micromark and if you order all at once, you can avoid their $$ sipping charges)
Hobby Link Japan has the Tamiya file.


But the first most important rule of etch club (after "you don't talk about etch club") is that you do not HAVE to use all the parts.

Say that to yourself..
you do not HAVE to use all the parts.

again
you do not HAVE to use ALL the parts.

One more time
you do NOT HAVE to use ALL the parts.

Mike

Does not have to be a Tamiya diamond file , just go to say Home Depot and look for a small diamond fine . The kind used to sharpen knives and tools . You can look for one that you are comfortable holding . Should be cheaper than the Tamiya . And to clean the file use an eraser to remove any leftovers on the file .

I got a cheapo set of diamond files, works for me. The Tamiya ones would probably last you 5x longer, but given how little you'll use them, it becomes a moot point. If you need finer clean up, 400 grit wet and dry works well and use it to scuff up the pe so it has a bit more tooth for whatever glue you use. Speaking of glue, liquid cement works for some applications, the glue melts the plastic and grips the edge of the pe, try it. And if you don't already have some, get Vallejo primer, it seals pe beautifully and I think works better than glue for really tiny fragile parts. Get a good assortment of tweezers, here you may want to pay for better quality ones.

Kimmo

I cut my etch with a sharp no.11 blade. It will require a little cleanup, but nothing major. For bending, I use a flat head pair of tweezers, bending pliers, a hold-n-fold and two straight razor blades. I use a pair of reading glasses and optivisor, for magnification. BSI extra thing, for gluing. I haven't tried soldering, yet. So, I am of no help there. And, a tea candle for annealing.

Thank you guys! I will be getting all this stuff & practicing.
I have a bunch of Bronco kit's that I don't want to touch yet cause the PE are so small. That bending tool is a must have.

I build 1/700 aircraft carriers and find the Xuron cutters and the "bug" hold and fold by The Small Shop indespensable. Gator glue and optivisor help. If I can do it at 1/700 scale at the age of 72, you can too. Just don't get all swept up with it. I use what works for me from the spru. Gotta try the Vallejo primer trick though.

EJ

Then you will certainly have to have one of those big magnifiers with the light built in to see those small pieces . Or as somebody said an opti visor .