hey i am quite new to the whole modeling business and i was wondering if anyone could give me advice on how too create and apply a washes to my latests projects i have tryed to create some but so far none have been successful how do i get the right consistency for them and what are the best paints to use. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :-)

ok when you make a wash use the same color as the paint you used what ever you are building,
what i do i use a jar and fill it up with paint thinner and use liltte paint,
cause u just want the thinner to be tinted and use a little black with the base color,
and stir it up good,
but be fore you put it on the model use future floor wax its a clear coat u need the clear coat.
so it dont eat the paint off your model and let the clear coat dry over night,
then u put the wash on the model.put it in all the lines of the hacthes,
and arund where ever there is tools.
and all over the rised deatil.
and after that is dryed dry brush the whole tank.
and that how u do a wash.
what i do is was the whole model and then dry brush the whole thing even the flat places.
but i would not do that if i was u cause u are new to doing washes and dry burshing.
every body here has there own ways of doing things and good luck

tazz covers it pretty well.
Basically there are two options 1. crease/detail washing or 2. whole kit wash.
Both use a dark shadow color put a very small amount in a bit of thinner. You want it thin and runny and not too much color. You can always add another coat to get more color - it's a lot harder to remove to much.
Pre the kit with a gloss coat of some kind. The gloss coat give the kit a very smooth surface for the wash to 'run' on/over. Without the gloss coat the wash will not capilary very well and you will have a harder time washing the kit (especially if you do option 2)

1. Crease detail version is where you use a Very thin brush and dip it in your wash and touch a panel crease or corner or engineering gear detail. The capliary action will draw the thinner into the crease. Just repeat this for all the detail/crease/crevace etc.
There shouldn't be too much over wash on areas that don't need it with this version.

2. Whole kit is a bit different. You take a bit bigger flat brush and dip it the wash. Pick an area cover the entire area (example the whole armor skirt on a stug or engine deck). You repeat this over the entire kit. You then go back with a Qtip. Dip the Qtip in stright thinner and rub off excess wash on the large panels. Start at the inside and work in a circular motion outward till you remove some of the wash. Do this until you have the desired fade/wash affect. You can leave all the wash on if you like the apperance - this actually then become a 'Filter' where the base coat is 'filtered' by a second overall coat to tone it down.

You can then drybrush and put a dull coat over it.

hey thanks heaps for the suggestions they were a great help :-)

one more thing dont use acrlicy paint for a wash,
it comes out really really bad,
cause i tryed this many years ago lol

The tamayia paints are acrylics right so they are no good but are humbrols paints the right sort because those are the only two i can get where i live

Hi RMT
I use only humbrol enamel thinner for washes. For colour i use both humbrol and oils. Whan washing I use the filter method as described above quite a lot. I use burnt umber oils mostly but for different effects i use dark greens, browns, blacks, etc. I only wipe away the filter with cotton buds on figures on the higher points.
I then use "pin washes". This is a wash with more pigment in it. I use the smallest brush i have ... 5/0. and just touch small details like nuts, creases, crevices, weld lines, etc, etc with it and capillery pulls it into its right place. Clean up any overflows with a white spirit damp cotton bud.
With both of these methods nice effects can be obtained. Followed by a light dry-brushing.
Build a cheap kit and experiment on it first so you get the hang of it. I recommend humbrol thinner as it is very mild and less chance of stripping the base coat. I hardly ever use a clear coat first and i dont have any problems. But I do let all paints cure for at least 3 days first

hey thanx for that it sounds like a good idea to try it out on an older model first and all the suggestions have been a great help :-)

All new techniques should be tested in aold and badbuilded models before a brand new effort. And also you can try easily corrections if something wrong catches your eye. The Humbrol colours and Humbrol enamel thinner is a very good compilation for the wash stuff. I also use the filter method years now and its simple and effective, though from time to time i tend to use new tricks that i think or read or listen to. Dont be afreid to experiment in something you come up with even if you think is extreme. Maybe you found something good!!! Good luck