This should be how to make an indestructible bond with styrene. OK. So, you apply cement(Tamiya, Testors, etc.) like normal. Give it five minutes to dry. Then, using an applicator(I use a fine piece of piano wire) you apply a drop of extra thin ca glue to the joint. Allow to cure. I've tried freezing the piece, heating it just before the plastic melts, ca glue debonder and more cement. The only way I have found to remove it is with careful knife work. This makes for a rock solid joint.

Wow sir , now that's hardcore . I have the shakes and the most difficulty of holding parts, I tend to drop the pieces a lot and just plain Tamiya thin set keeps them from coming apart. If I may add a bit to what you said , have a q tip ready after you apply the super glue and it wicks into the joint you can soak up the excess super glue with the q tip and leave just a very slight haze on the surface. The same with using i super glue to attach the PE to the models, put a drop on the PE put it on the model and soak up what oozes out . Same thing it will be absorbed by the cotton .

I discovered this, when I could keep a piece secured with Tamiya to bond. Held it, for five minutes and added the drop of ca glue. Unfortunately, on the same kit, I glue two pieces incorrectly. I can't even get a knife into them, due to their location.

There should be absolutely no need to go to this level if "gluing" plastic to plastic providing you are using the correct poly cement. It's obvious from the way poly cement works.

If however you intentionaly wish to glue two plastic parts together but at a later stage seperate them then CA glue is the ideal choice as it doesn't work the same way as poly glue.

Even using poly cement, some fine parts may break away. The ca glues holds it in place, as the poly cement cures.

I have a hereditary tremor, Edmund. So I can appreciate what you have to go through. I have the same issue with soldering model railroad equipment, too.