Guys
I have just bought a new Nikon D3200 SLR Camera with an 18-55mm lens and 24.2 megapixels.
I am pretty hopeless at photography and would like some advice regarding shooting photographs of my models with this piece of kit.
I have tried a few photigraphs and find the depth of field is a problem with blurring.
I have trawled this site and have read about settings for your camera ect.
Can someone give me some advice re settings ect for this camera.
Any help will be appreciated.
Cheers
Gerry
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gerrysmodels
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Posted: Friday, August 30, 2013 - 05:18 PM UTC
DaveCox
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Posted: Friday, August 30, 2013 - 07:42 PM UTC
Just to start with, I'd set the camera to aperture priority mode ( I use Pentax so not sure what this is on the Nikon setting dial - probably A or AV), and set it at F11. Put the camera on a tripod with a remote release (quite cheap usually) at the 55mm end of the lens. Experimentation will show the best distance etc, and the setting can be tweaked a bit. No substitute for practice!
firstcircle
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Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 11:00 AM UTC
Gerry, the theory is the same for all SLR cameras, you need to have the aperture closed down as small as you can - f29 - in order to get the depth of field you want. Because that's so small you needa fairly long exposure, but exactly how long will depend on various factors: how bright your lighting is, the colour of your subject and background, etc. And because the exposure is fairly long, you need to keep the camera very still, so ideally a tripod; instead ofa remote shutter release you could use the self timer or just be careful when pressing it.
To access the manual mode on a Nikon (all cameras?) Turn that dial on the top to M. Turning the black knob with your thumb will make the exposure longer or shorter and this is shown on the graphic display; hold the little +/- button at the same time as turning that thumb knob will adjust the aperture (f stop).
So witha white background, a daylight type task lamp pointing at the model, cameraabout 7 inches from subject, on a tripod, aperture right down, I often use an exposure time of about half to quarter of a second - shown on the display as 4 or 2 - only when it is over 1second you'll see the " displayed.
If photo is too dark increase the exposure time, and vice versa. You also need to work out how close you can get; try the autofocus and see how closer you can get with it allowing you to shoot; if too close it will kind of lock the shutter. On manual focus you can probably get closer and have a bit more control, but the autofocus is very convenient.
I agree, practice is what is needed to get the hang of it, but keep the aperture down small, have plenty of light and keep the camera still for the exposure necessary, andyou should get something decent eventually.
To access the manual mode on a Nikon (all cameras?) Turn that dial on the top to M. Turning the black knob with your thumb will make the exposure longer or shorter and this is shown on the graphic display; hold the little +/- button at the same time as turning that thumb knob will adjust the aperture (f stop).
So witha white background, a daylight type task lamp pointing at the model, cameraabout 7 inches from subject, on a tripod, aperture right down, I often use an exposure time of about half to quarter of a second - shown on the display as 4 or 2 - only when it is over 1second you'll see the " displayed.
If photo is too dark increase the exposure time, and vice versa. You also need to work out how close you can get; try the autofocus and see how closer you can get with it allowing you to shoot; if too close it will kind of lock the shutter. On manual focus you can probably get closer and have a bit more control, but the autofocus is very convenient.
I agree, practice is what is needed to get the hang of it, but keep the aperture down small, have plenty of light and keep the camera still for the exposure necessary, andyou should get something decent eventually.
gerrysmodels
Scotland, United Kingdom
Member Since: September 13, 2012
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Member Since: September 13, 2012
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Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 12:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Just to start with, I'd set the camera to aperture priority mode ( I use Pentax so not sure what this is on the Nikon setting dial - probably A or AV), and set it at F11. Put the camera on a tripod with a remote release (quite cheap usually) at the 55mm end of the lens. Experimentation will show the best distance etc, and the setting can be tweaked a bit. No substitute for practice!
Dave
Thanks for that it was very helpful and I hope that by practising I do become better as at the moment I am pretty awful at photography.
Cheers
Gerry
gerrysmodels
Scotland, United Kingdom
Member Since: September 13, 2012
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Member Since: September 13, 2012
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Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 12:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gerry, the theory is the same for all SLR cameras, you need to have the aperture closed down as small as you can - f29 - in order to get the depth of field you want. Because that's so small you needa fairly long exposure, but exactly how long will depend on various factors: how bright your lighting is, the colour of your subject and background, etc. And because the exposure is fairly long, you need to keep the camera very still, so ideally a tripod; instead ofa remote shutter release you could use the self timer or just be careful when pressing it.
To access the manual mode on a Nikon (all cameras?) Turn that dial on the top to M. Turning the black knob with your thumb will make the exposure longer or shorter and this is shown on the graphic display; hold the little +/- button at the same time as turning that thumb knob will adjust the aperture (f stop).
So witha white background, a daylight type task lamp pointing at the model, cameraabout 7 inches from subject, on a tripod, aperture right down, I often use an exposure time of about half to quarter of a second - shown on the display as 4 or 2 - only when it is over 1second you'll see the " displayed.
If photo is too dark increase the exposure time, and vice versa. You also need to work out how close you can get; try the autofocus and see how closer you can get with it allowing you to shoot; if too close it will kind of lock the shutter. On manual focus you can probably get closer and have a bit more control, but the autofocus is very convenient.
I agree, practice is what is needed to get the hang of it, but keep the aperture down small, have plenty of light and keep the camera still for the exposure necessary, andyou should get something decent eventually.
Matt
Thanks for that advice it was really helpful.
I am doing as you say and practising with the camera and using the good advice I get from you guys on this forum.
Cheers
Gerry
mmeier
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Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 12:48 PM UTC
What might also help is using a macro lens that can be screwed in at the front of the lens acting like enhancement glasses. Not as good as a true macro but it helps and is cheap. Nice add on to the 18-55 on my Canon
As already said a tripod is extremly helpful. Does not have to be a costly one since you will use it indoors. Cable based remote is useful as well, does not have to be the more costlx radio type. The automatic release can be used as an alternative since the msin idea is to remove vibration.
Good lighting is also helpful and a lightbox can be useful. This can be as simple as a cardboard box with cut outs at the top and sides covered with transparent paper. Shine the lighs through it to soften it and get less shadows. The white or generally unicolored background should be run in a slight half-c curve from the top to prevent a fold showing.
As already said a tripod is extremly helpful. Does not have to be a costly one since you will use it indoors. Cable based remote is useful as well, does not have to be the more costlx radio type. The automatic release can be used as an alternative since the msin idea is to remove vibration.
Good lighting is also helpful and a lightbox can be useful. This can be as simple as a cardboard box with cut outs at the top and sides covered with transparent paper. Shine the lighs through it to soften it and get less shadows. The white or generally unicolored background should be run in a slight half-c curve from the top to prevent a fold showing.
gerrysmodels
Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 12:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
What might also help is using a macro lens that can be screwed in at the front of the lens acting like enhancement glasses. Not as good as a true macro but it helps and is cheap. Nice add on to the 18-55 on my Canon
As already said a tripod is extremly helpful. Does not have to be a costly one since you will use it indoors. Cable based remote is useful as well, does not have to be the more costlx radio type. The automatic release can be used as an alternative since the msin idea is to remove vibration.
Good lighting is also helpful and a lightbox can be useful. This can be as simple as a cardboard box with cut outs at the top and sides covered with transparent paper. Shine the lighs through it to soften it and get less shadows. The white or generally unicolored background should be run in a slight half-c curve from the top to prevent a fold showing.
MMeier
Thanks for that.
I have constructed a light box out of a cardboard box and have found it very good.
I use a white pillowcase fitted into the box as my background and it works well.
I have good lights and the results so far are promising.
Thanks for the advice very usefull.
Cheers
Gerry
c5flies
California, United States
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Posted: Saturday, September 21, 2013 - 01:55 PM UTC
Gerry, I'd recommend manually setting your white balance and not use the auto feature for this. On the Nikon it should simply be pressing the WB button until PRE flashes and then focus on your white pillowcase background and press the shutter release. That should help with getting the colors correct for your lighting system.
mmeier
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 05:06 AM UTC
Having played around with a DSLR and scale models:
Set the camera in a mode where you can control appreture size and the camera handles timing, that makes life easy while giving enough control. You might need a tripod or at least a sturdy support.
Set a relatively large appretur size so you get a good depth of field. Generally that is how you control what is "in focus" and what not. You might want the rear to be slightly out of focus to direct the viewers eyes to the model
Autofocus can work for some models but be prepared to switch to manuel focus for models like a long barreled tank otherwise you might end up with a well focused muzzle break and a blurry chassis.
If you can connect your camera to a computer to view the shots basically while taking them do so. Either through cable or, if the camera supports it, WiFi. There exists some (costly) cameras with on board WiFi but many more support WiFi SD-Cards like EyeFi.
Shooting "RAW" instead of the more common JPEG offers more possibilities for working with the picture on your computer after the shooting
Choose the height of the camera based on what you want to show. Typically you want a shot from "cameraman's eye height". That is around 165-175cm => 4.5 to 5cm above the ground level of your diorama
Make sure kit and camera are level to one another
Forget makro mode that is for taking pictures of a bee on a flower etc. not for the type of "close in" work done with scale models. A 18-55 (actually a 29-88 on most crop DSLR) is good enough and you will use the middle of the range mostly
After some discussions on DSLR forums the general consensus for taking pictures of diorama/vignette rather than single model was:
Do not use a light tent / light box but rather a single main source (sun) and maybe a smallish secondary to cover some shadows. If you can do "daylight" shoots instead - do so
Yellow is a stupid color for a background
Minimu variations in apreture can change the depth of field:
Set the camera in a mode where you can control appreture size and the camera handles timing, that makes life easy while giving enough control. You might need a tripod or at least a sturdy support.
Set a relatively large appretur size so you get a good depth of field. Generally that is how you control what is "in focus" and what not. You might want the rear to be slightly out of focus to direct the viewers eyes to the model
Autofocus can work for some models but be prepared to switch to manuel focus for models like a long barreled tank otherwise you might end up with a well focused muzzle break and a blurry chassis.
If you can connect your camera to a computer to view the shots basically while taking them do so. Either through cable or, if the camera supports it, WiFi. There exists some (costly) cameras with on board WiFi but many more support WiFi SD-Cards like EyeFi.
Shooting "RAW" instead of the more common JPEG offers more possibilities for working with the picture on your computer after the shooting
Choose the height of the camera based on what you want to show. Typically you want a shot from "cameraman's eye height". That is around 165-175cm => 4.5 to 5cm above the ground level of your diorama
Make sure kit and camera are level to one another
Forget makro mode that is for taking pictures of a bee on a flower etc. not for the type of "close in" work done with scale models. A 18-55 (actually a 29-88 on most crop DSLR) is good enough and you will use the middle of the range mostly
After some discussions on DSLR forums the general consensus for taking pictures of diorama/vignette rather than single model was:
Do not use a light tent / light box but rather a single main source (sun) and maybe a smallish secondary to cover some shadows. If you can do "daylight" shoots instead - do so
Yellow is a stupid color for a background
Minimu variations in apreture can change the depth of field:
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 - 10:22 AM UTC
As ever, it isn't the camera that matters, it is what you do with it. I have a DSLR and a bridge camera and most times my model pics are taken with a Canon Ixus compact, hand held and NO flash. I do sometimes use a Gorillapod for support. Using the camera resting on the bench gives natural height eye level shots in 1/72 scale. I do need a plain background tho, and a light box would be better. Learn what the effects of varying each control is, use manual settings, read a couple of books on photography, doesn't have to be digital, film cameras work the same way and old photography books often turn up in charity shops. If you understand what the camera is doing, you will find photography easier and more fun.
mmeier
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 11:00 PM UTC