Having played around with a DSLR and scale models:
Set the camera in a mode where you can control appreture size and the camera handles timing, that makes life easy while giving enough control. You might need a tripod or at least a sturdy support.
Set a relatively large appretur size so you get a good depth of field. Generally that is how you control what is "in focus" and what not. You might want the rear to be slightly out of focus to direct the viewers eyes to the model
Autofocus can work for some models but be prepared to switch to manuel focus for models like a long barreled tank otherwise you might end up with a well focused muzzle break and a blurry chassis.
If you can connect your camera to a computer to view the shots basically while taking them do so. Either through cable or, if the camera supports it, WiFi. There exists some (costly) cameras with on board WiFi but many more support WiFi SD-Cards like EyeFi.
Shooting "RAW" instead of the more common JPEG offers more possibilities for working with the picture on your computer after the shooting
Choose the height of the camera based on what you want to show. Typically you want a shot from "cameraman's eye height". That is around 165-175cm => 4.5 to 5cm above the ground level of your diorama
Make sure kit and camera are level to one another
Forget makro mode that is for taking pictures of a bee on a flower etc. not for the type of "close in" work done with scale models. A 18-55 (actually a 29-88 on most crop DSLR) is good enough and you will use the middle of the range mostly
After some discussions on DSLR forums the general consensus for taking pictures of diorama/vignette rather than single model was:
Do not use a light tent / light box but rather a single main source (sun) and maybe a smallish secondary to cover some shadows. If you can do "daylight" shoots instead - do so
Yellow is a stupid color for a background

Minimu variations in apreture can change the depth of field:

