Hi All
The unthinkable has happened. I scratched one of the clear parts windows. I was able to remove the scratch, but now the windows is foggy. Any way to remedy the problem?
Thanks

The Aeroscale lads will be able to provide most detail but it consists of sanding with finer and finer grades of paper and polish. From memory tooth paste is quite a good polishing agent but DONT use a whitening toothpaste as they are more abrasive.

I've had some success using floor wax after the fine sanding-2000 grit.

Thanks for the replies.
I will try the toothpaste method
Is the purpose of the floor wax to try to fill in the sanding marks?

Would shooting it with a coat of clear gloss achieve the same result as the wax?
Thanks

Until you've got the whole scratch polished down, all that putting on a gloss coat would do is accentuate it.

Stop in the nail care section of your local drug store and get one of those polishing pads for fingernails. It has a very fine grit on one side and a buffing pad on the other. Use the fine grit in a circular motion to polish out the remains of the scratches. Once you've got the whole window done, use the buffing side to make it shine again. Then you can put on a coat of Future to help keep it shiny.

Jessica's advice is your best course of action.

From my auto modeling days, I still have a set of polishing pads that go from 600 to 1,200. After that I polished the surface with car polish that contains no wax.

Joel

No more 'Future' . Johnson's changed it to 'Pledge'. Same thing in a new bottle and a new name!

FWIW, I went to an auto parts store and picked up 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry sanding sheets. I managed to get a set of six 1" square pads (2400-12,000 grit)from Model Expo. I've used these on at least one canopy to sand it down to fit. I've also used them on seam work before using silver paint. A little plastic polish from Novus helped too.

My old stand by, Brasso, changed from a petroleum base to an ammonia based recipe, so it doesn't work nearly as well.