when i got back into the hobby months ago i went to the local hobby shop looking for Testor's "tube" glue. the hobby shop owner told me that the only glue to use is Tamiya extra thin, in fact thats all he would carry.
my question is i noticed that Tamiya sells two types of glue, the extra thin and a bottle marked "cement" both are liquid.......why two different glues?
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Why are there two types of Tamiya glues?
WhiteCloud
Member Since: December 26, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 11:35 AM UTC
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 11:51 AM UTC
The extra thin is not as good at filling gaps as the regular. However, it is better when used to glue photo-etch to plastic and itself.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 11:57 AM UTC
Because one of them (orange or white cap) is thicker than the other one (green cap). The thickest one is suitable if you need a stronger bond. Its drying time is longer and it doesn't allow you a bond obtained with a "capillary" action
The thinnest one is suitable when you need a clean bond. You have just to match the parts that you need to glue to each other and pass a light coat of glue with the small brush that you find under the cap. Capillary action will joint your parts and the extremely short drying time makes the glue won't damage your kit parts.
I hope that's clear enough, anyway here you can find some tutorials about
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXTK9KdRQN4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6FKB9y7HuA
Matt...sorry but....Tamiya green cap glue for PE parts?!!!
The thinnest one is suitable when you need a clean bond. You have just to match the parts that you need to glue to each other and pass a light coat of glue with the small brush that you find under the cap. Capillary action will joint your parts and the extremely short drying time makes the glue won't damage your kit parts.
I hope that's clear enough, anyway here you can find some tutorials about
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXTK9KdRQN4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6FKB9y7HuA
Matt...sorry but....Tamiya green cap glue for PE parts?!!!
WhiteCloud
Member Since: December 26, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 12:02 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The extra thin is not as good at filling gaps as the regular. However, it is better when used to glue photo-etch to plastic and itself.
wait a minute....the extra thin will glue PE to plastic? i thought that the only glue that would work to glue metal to plastic was instant glue.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 12:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThe extra thin is not as good at filling gaps as the regular. However, it is better when used to glue photo-etch to plastic and itself.
wait a minute....the extra thin will glue PE to plastic? i thought that the only glue that would work to glue metal to plastic was instant glue.
And you're absolutely right!! Ca glue, acrylic glue or 2 parts epoxy glue are effective...Thin plastic cement simply doesn't work with metal parts...and to be honest, to fill the gaps it would be far better to use the putty...
WhiteCloud
Member Since: December 26, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 12:26 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextThe extra thin is not as good at filling gaps as the regular. However, it is better when used to glue photo-etch to plastic and itself.
wait a minute....the extra thin will glue PE to plastic? i thought that the only glue that would work to glue metal to plastic was instant glue.
And you're absolutely right!! Ca glue, acrylic glue or 2 parts epoxy glue are effective...Thin plastic cement simply doesn't work with metal parts...and to be honest, to fill the gaps it would be far better to use the putty...
you mentioned acrylic glue, i'm not familar with that type, what type or brand would you recommend?
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 12:30 PM UTC
Unfortunately it isn't sold here in Italy, but reading on the site, I've notice that lots of guys who live in the USA use "Gator glue" for PE parts
http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html
http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/review/2660
As far as I've understood it's also useful to bond clear plastic parts
http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html
http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/review/2660
As far as I've understood it's also useful to bond clear plastic parts
WhiteCloud
Member Since: December 26, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 02:14 PM UTC
i appreciate all of your help and quick response, i am going to try the other type of Tamiya glue to see how it works and if it offers any advantages to me.
i also plan to try the gator glue, i hate using instant glue, i like the advantage of being able to reposition the part if needed, don't like epoxy to much, it works but is to thick
thanks again everyone!
i also plan to try the gator glue, i hate using instant glue, i like the advantage of being able to reposition the part if needed, don't like epoxy to much, it works but is to thick
thanks again everyone!
viper29_ca
Member Since: October 18, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 04:34 PM UTC
Another tip, because the X-Thin cement is well....thin, it tends to dry much faster. So if you have a large area that needs cement on it (think 2 halves to an aircraft fuselage), it tends to be dry before you get all the way around to where you started with the glue. The regular cement will still be wet as it takes longer to dry.
Also with the reg. cement, put the glue on both pieces, let set up for 5-10 secs, and you get the "ooze" of the plastic when you press the 2 parts together. Let dry completely, scrape off the oozed plastic and 9 time out of 10, you don't need any putty on that seam as the melted plastic from the glue has filled it.
I haven't quite figured out what the difference between the white cap and orange capped bottles are, other than the color and the orange one is a hexagon shaped bottle vs the familiar square bottle with the white cap.
There is also the Tamiya Limonene Cement, for those that don't like the smell of the Reg. or X-Thin...smells like limes, doesn't work as fast, but does work, and is the consistency of the reg. cement.
Also with the reg. cement, put the glue on both pieces, let set up for 5-10 secs, and you get the "ooze" of the plastic when you press the 2 parts together. Let dry completely, scrape off the oozed plastic and 9 time out of 10, you don't need any putty on that seam as the melted plastic from the glue has filled it.
I haven't quite figured out what the difference between the white cap and orange capped bottles are, other than the color and the orange one is a hexagon shaped bottle vs the familiar square bottle with the white cap.
There is also the Tamiya Limonene Cement, for those that don't like the smell of the Reg. or X-Thin...smells like limes, doesn't work as fast, but does work, and is the consistency of the reg. cement.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 - 10:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I haven't quite figured out what the difference between the white cap and orange capped bottles are, other than the color and the orange one is a hexagon shaped bottle vs the familiar square bottle with the white cap.
As far as I've understood , it's just the same glue sold in 2 different bottles. However in Italian HMS you can find only the orange and the green cap, so I can't be more precise about. It may be also possible that it's a "medium thickness cement".
To use the glue as a sort of putty I'm used to adopting the Faller expert glue
http://www.stanbridges.com.au/shop/medium/170492.jpg
When it dries it becomes hard as a nail, so it's easier to remove the seal with an X-acto blade
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 12:07 PM UTC
Quoted Text
It may be also possible that it's a "medium thickness cement".
I confirm. I've made some research and I've found that Tamiya white cap cement actually has a density which is lower than the orange cap one but higher than the green top one
I hope this can help you
viper29_ca
Member Since: October 18, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 04:36 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextIt may be also possible that it's a "medium thickness cement".
I confirm. I've made some research and I've found that Tamiya white cap cement actually has a density which is lower than the orange cap one but higher than the green top one
I hope this can help you
Sooo, the orange capped cement is actually thicker than the white cap cement, cool. Don't know if it would really serve a purpose, as I haven't needed anything thicker than the white cap cement.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 08:40 PM UTC
Scott,orange cap glue is quite useful if you need to replicate the casting iron surfaces.
I'm not particulary fond of it. It's such a thick glue that it's hard to spread without doing a huge mess. As much as possible I tend to use the thinnest glue and the Faller cement for stronger bond
Anyway, I'd like to try the white cap glue, but I should buy it on line
I'm not particulary fond of it. It's such a thick glue that it's hard to spread without doing a huge mess. As much as possible I tend to use the thinnest glue and the Faller cement for stronger bond
Anyway, I'd like to try the white cap glue, but I should buy it on line
casper
Member Since: August 01, 2005
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Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 07:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm not particulary fond of it. It's such a thick glue that it's hard to spread without doing a huge mess.
Mauro,
A little tip that may be of use, if I need to bond a larger surface area or do any lamination I'e found a 50/50 (approx) mix of the thick and thin glues to yield very good results, spreads easily and produces a good bond.
Also a tip for those that allow the joining parts to 'ooze' - error on the side of caution when doing this as this can create sink-holes at a future time (due to the glue taking days to even weeks to fully cure (even though you may think it dry and created a solid joint the chemicals may still be doing their thing). Although the modern glues 'should' be less susceptable to this occuring (in comparison to the glues of the 70's-80's, and composition of the plastics) it is something to be aware of. Always safer to use a proper filler.
HTH.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 09:12 PM UTC
Thanks for the tip Casper. A lot of time ago I used to dilute it with a bit of trieline, but now anymore because trieline sale has been forbidden (it's too toxic indeed). More than thinning the thickest glue, it's easier to thicken the thinnest one. You have just to sink in the bottle some sprue pieces. The more plastic you put, the thickest glue you have. You can obtain also a sort of putty this way.
I know the glue "long term effects". When I was a young and inexpert modeller, I remember having glued a radome of an aircraft model with a really huge amount of Airfix cement. When the glue seemed cured, all looked right....but when I was about to paint my model I noticed that the part was...floppy
Eventually I was forced to get rid of my job. The glue hadn't had any room to evaporate completely, so its fumes melted away the part!
I know the glue "long term effects". When I was a young and inexpert modeller, I remember having glued a radome of an aircraft model with a really huge amount of Airfix cement. When the glue seemed cured, all looked right....but when I was about to paint my model I noticed that the part was...floppy
Eventually I was forced to get rid of my job. The glue hadn't had any room to evaporate completely, so its fumes melted away the part!zailaiboke
Member Since: August 24, 2013
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Posted: Friday, August 23, 2013 - 05:59 PM UTC
joint your parts and the extremely short drying time
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Aion Kinah|Diablo 3 Gold
chumpo
Member Since: August 30, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 06:32 AM UTC
It might hold the PE but I think it's a permanent hold. The only way to use Tamiya thin cement to glue PE to the plastic models is to superglue a very thin sheet of plastic to the PE which you can thin down to a very thin piece of plastic as long as there is plastic on the metal the thin set will glue the PE to the model . But PE to plastic I don't think so .
Thudius
Member Since: October 22, 2012
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 07:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
It might hold the PE but I think it's a permanent hold. The only way to use Tamiya thin cement to glue PE to the plastic models is to superglue a very thin sheet of plastic to the PE which you can thin down to a very thin piece of plastic as long as there is plastic on the metal the thin set will glue the PE to the model . But PE to plastic I don't think so .
I've heard of some using it for PE parts without the thin backing of styrene. I believe the theory is that the plastic underneath gets softened and the PE part gets tacked onto the plastic. A quick test should quickly confirm or bust this. Similarly, On Military Modelling, one guy used Tamiya thin to suck in very fine wire around a car fender. The wire was tacked on at the ends of the curve and in the middle, then glue was applied. Don't ask me why or how it works, but it apparently does.
Kimmo
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 12:29 AM UTC
Sorry. I meant ca glue. Must have had one or two of my late night modelling binges.
robot_
Member Since: March 08, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, October 27, 2013 - 07:56 AM UTC
If you're looking for an acrylic glue like Gator's Grip (and you can't get that), then Revell's Contacta Clear is pretty good stuff. I've used it for canopies, landing light covers and gluing photo etch. It seems much stronger than Micro Krystal Klear, which is a form of PVA.
If you need to glue very tiny photo etch bits, then Future/Klear or similar acrylic floor polishes can also be used as an acrylic glue.
If you need to glue very tiny photo etch bits, then Future/Klear or similar acrylic floor polishes can also be used as an acrylic glue.
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