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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
What is used as a filler for models?
THUNDERSNOW517
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Michigan, United States
Member Since: September 08, 2012
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Posted: Thursday, September 20, 2012 - 11:30 AM UTC
I know Bondo wont stick to plastic well, and just epoxy is very hard to sand.

What would one use to cover, say.. the top piece attached to the hull under the turret of a M1A1 tank. I want to fill over all the details and have the appearance of one large smooth surface. I know there has to be something!

Thank you in advance!
Jessie_C
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Posted: Thursday, September 20, 2012 - 12:15 PM UTC
There are many different types of filler, depending on what you want to do with them. There are specially formulated model fillers, mostly based on Toluene or other solvents. Glazier's spot putty is a good (and much cheaper) option available in every hardware store. Spackle can also be used on surfaces that don't take much handling. 2 part epoxy putty has its place, as does gap filling superglue, whether or not you bulk it up with microballoons.

You'll hear of modellers speaking of Green Stuff (Squadron's Green Putty, also available in white), Tamiya putty, light curing putty, Testors putty, Zap-a-Gap, Milliput, Mr Surfacer and many other brands. Each type is slightly different.

I suggest that you get several kinds and experiment to find out how they work best. Most of the toluene-based putties can be thinned with liquid glue.
THUNDERSNOW517
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Posted: Thursday, September 20, 2012 - 12:19 PM UTC
WOW thanks thats alot of help.
Rouse713
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Posted: Friday, September 21, 2012 - 05:18 AM UTC
Most modelling putties will dissolve the surface of the model to help adhesion. For the majority of filling and sanding that you will do on models, a modelling putty will be the best option. When you go to resin or brass, other options such as superglue, epoxy, and other special formulations may be better suited.
vanize
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Posted: Friday, September 21, 2012 - 05:44 AM UTC
If you ask me, what you want is Milliput - it is basically an epoxy putty and relatively easy to shape and sand (way easier than epoxy resin). Tamiya also makes a version of this, but is way more expensive for a lot less material (though the tamiya stuff does seem to have a longer shelf-life)

milliput comes in various grains and colors. the fine grain ones are more expensive, but leave a better surface for modelling in the end (or just give the courser grain stuff a couple layers of primer and light sanding to smooth it out when you are done with it)



It won't seem to stick all that well at first, but once it is cured it is very difficult to get off plastic. sand the plastic with rough sandpaper beforhand to get even better adhesion. Make sure to remove unwanted blobs that get on other parts of your model or furniture BEFORE it cures.

while it is curing, you can shape and smooth it with a wet fingertip or use sculpting tools that you dunk in water occasionally (H2O keeps the milliput from sticking to you or your sculpting tool).

Also, most solvent-based putties will shrink a bit when drying, milliput will not
Chillidragon
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Posted: Friday, September 21, 2012 - 06:09 AM UTC
I'm still getting to grips with Mr Surfacer, but so far mostly on white metal. A word of caution: I have used it on Polystyrene - and with success - but slightly thinned and with a single, decisive stroke. Otherwise, being lacquer-based, it bites into the plastic and the resulting mixture drags. But it is very good and sands down far smoother than silk. (Which, it happens, isn't as smooth as you might expect.)

To conserve beer tokens (arian, gelt, mazoomah, cash etc) it can be thinned with Cellulose Thinner from a car/auto spares shop/outlet, or a DIY warehouse (no idea of the American for that - it's a sort of open penitentiary for married men at weekends and holidays in the UK).

Don't try to carve it when dry - it flakes. Patience and wet abrasive.
retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, September 21, 2012 - 06:40 AM UTC
I just picked up a can of primer/filler from WalMart's automotive department. I've had no problems with auto body putty not sticking. You may have a bad tube of it. I compare this to Squadron white putty and Testor's contour putty. I've tried epoxy putty and not been pleased with the results.
TRM5150
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Posted: Friday, September 21, 2012 - 06:46 AM UTC
Hey Christopher!!

Pretty much what I use for the most part....Squadron Green, Red, white...Tamiya White, Millput...

Been know to use correction fluid, white out or Tipex for filling fine gaps like on the back of aircraft and such. Use CA as well too!

Chillidragon
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Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 02:05 AM UTC
Many moons ago a certain man of our times recommended tippex or CA; the former I could never get to go where I wanted or how (nor, come to think of it, on paper) the latter I found problematic in that it's harder than plastic. Uneven sanding.
retiredyank
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Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 03:37 AM UTC
I'm telling you the generic auto body putty works like a charm. It doesn't shrink, can be smoothed with a damp brush and sands like a dream.
Chillidragon
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Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2012 - 11:23 PM UTC
I've just taken delivery of some Mr. Dissolved Putty; it's meant for more serious filling, specifically where Mr surfacer 500 isn't enough (I think Mr Surfacer might have been called a 'stopper' in the last century, something put on before primer to fill small imperfections) and can be applied over Mr Surfacer. Similar composition, same cautions. And not for large holes/gaps.

Not bad, though.
dudas1965
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Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2012 - 09:05 AM UTC
For small gaps or when details can be ruined by sanding, try correction fluid...
Joel_W
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AUTOMODELER
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Posted: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 09:36 AM UTC
I've used Bondo auto doby filler on and off for years, and it works great. Sticks to plastic without any issues, and doesn't shrink like Green/white stuff.

Joel
HawkeyeV
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Posted: Friday, November 02, 2012 - 03:57 AM UTC
Check out this thread here on Aeroscale
https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/111677&page=1

Also, http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2012/10/31/fillers-ep42/
spiralcity
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Posted: Monday, November 05, 2012 - 07:30 AM UTC
I use CA 99.9 percent of the time. You need to work with it quickly, before it fully hardens and you will have NO problems with sanding and shaping.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Monday, November 05, 2012 - 08:10 AM UTC
It always depends on the gaps that you have to fill

For the smaller ones In my opinion the best one is Tamiya white putty

For the largest you can use Milliput putty ( however it isn't easy to apply), or ca glue + talcum powder (which is an incredibly effective "putty")

Anyway, when I have huge breaches and I need strength , I'm used to filling the gap with plastic strps glued with Tamiya thin cement. When the glue is well cured, I'm used to applying a coat of mr Surfacer 500 then I sand down
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