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Modeling in General: Advice on...
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Question about glueing PE to clear canopies
ljames0874
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 02:26 PM UTC
A simple question that probably has a very simple answer - is there a product or technique for attaching PE parts (mirrors etc) to model aircraft canopies, without misting up and therefore ruining the clear part?
Grauwolf
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 02:58 PM UTC
PVA glue....the white stuff....will dry clear and not marr canopies.

Elymer's, Weldbond, Lepage or whatever brand is available in
your country.

Cheers.
Joe
viper29_ca
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 03:46 PM UTC
Future....works awesome as a glue for PE....not just for on canopies either....all PE.
ljames0874
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 08:22 PM UTC
Thanks for the advice Scott and Joe. My only concern about using PVA is, in such minute quantities (for attaching mirrors to canopies etc), will a dot of PVA be strong enough?

Also, this Future stuff. I've never previously heard of it so I looked it up in the search bar on this site and all the comments refer to it as some type of floor polish. Is this what you mean Scott? If it is, then the nearest thing I could get a hold of in this country would be Johnson's Klear (useful stuff, we used to iron it into our Army uniforms to give razor sharp creases, and also for sealing a high gloss onto our boot toecaps!)
Karl187
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 11:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for the advice Scott and Joe. My only concern about using PVA is, in such minute quantities (for attaching mirrors to canopies etc), will a dot of PVA be strong enough?

Also, this Future stuff. I've never previously heard of it so I looked it up in the search bar on this site and all the comments refer to it as some type of floor polish. Is this what you mean Scott? If it is, then the nearest thing I could get a hold of in this country would be Johnson's Klear (useful stuff, we used to iron it into our Army uniforms to give razor sharp creases, and also for sealing a high gloss onto our boot toecaps!)



I usually find a dot of PVA is enough- depends on what size the part you are glueing is.

As for Future- you are dead on the money- they called it Johnson's Klear in the UK- but its now sold in the UK and Ireland as 'Pledge Multi-Surface Wax'- it comes in a white bottle and its not totally clear anymore, its got a kind of milky-yellowy tint but it works just like the old stuff.
Jessie_C
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 02:55 AM UTC
Clear gloss enamel also works well.
viper29_ca
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 03:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

?

Also, this Future stuff. I've never previously heard of it so I looked it up in the search bar on this site and all the comments refer to it as some type of floor polish. Is this what you mean Scott? If it is, then the nearest thing I could get a hold of in this country would be Johnson's Klear (useful stuff, we used to iron it into our Army uniforms to give razor sharp creases, and also for sealing a high gloss onto our boot toecaps!)



Johnson's Klear in Europe...yes....basically it is a gloss acrylic medium. Dries pretty quickly, and if you get too much on somewhere like glass, you can clean up with a Q-tip (cotton bud) and some Windex or other ammonia based glass cleaner.
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 03:59 AM UTC
Bob Smith Industries -- often sold at Hobbytown USA -- puts out a bunch of CAs, and one of them would not fog clear parts. I used it on my Brewster Buffalo, IIRC, and it did not fog the clear parts. I did a quick search of their site but didn't find mention of CA for clear parts, and I do not recall which one it was. Here's their site:

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Here's their CA selection matrix
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 05:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Bob Smith Industries...one of them would not fog clear parts.



UPDATE: BSI already replied:
Fred,

Super-Gold+ works very good on clear plastic. You can also use our Insta-Set accelerator on it if you need to speed things up. It also won't affect the clear plastic.

Charlee Smith
BSI
ljames0874
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Posted: Monday, September 10, 2012 - 09:39 PM UTC
Okay chaps, I have acquired a bottle of Klear/Pledge Multi Surface Wax/Future, and now I have a few more questions about it.

When using it to prepare a models surfaces for decal application, do you water it down (I assume you do), and if so, by how much?

Also, assuming you do water it down, would you (or could you) airbrush it on, or would you brush it on?

Finally, when using it to glue PE to canopies etc, do you just use it neat, or do you water it down at all?

I would be grateful for all advice - cheers!
Karl187
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Posted: Monday, September 10, 2012 - 10:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Okay chaps, I have acquired a bottle of Klear/Pledge Multi Surface Wax/Future, and now I have a few more questions about it.

When using it to prepare a models surfaces for decal application, do you water it down (I assume you do), and if so, by how much?

Also, assuming you do water it down, would you (or could you) airbrush it on, or would you brush it on?

Finally, when using it to glue PE to canopies etc, do you just use it neat, or do you water it down at all?

I would be grateful for all advice - cheers!



Just speaking personally, I've never watered down Future. It sprays through an airbrush straight out of the bottle. The only thing I would say to watch out for is over-saturation of the surface- too much sprayed on in one place and it will start to run and the runs can be quite visible so take it easy when spraying.

You don't just have to use it to prepare a surface for decaling- since it produces a nice glossy finish it is very useful for prepping a surface for the application of an enamel or oil wash as it helps these mediums to flow.

I sometimes brush it straight out of the bottle onto areas where there are small decals but its also useful to add a natural shine to leather items- especially those on figures.

Attaching PE with it is simple too- just brush a bit on, put the PE in place, drop a bit more on the top and let it dry.

I hope this helps.
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