_GOTOBOTTOM
Tools & Supplies
Discussions on the latest and greatest tools, glues, and gadgets.
Hosted by Matt Leese
Alclad question
Thundergrunt
Visit this Community
California, United States
Member Since: November 01, 2009
entire network: 657 Posts
KitMaker Network: 75 Posts
Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 05:37 PM UTC
Ok all ive looked all around alclad in search and gloss primers. I am building a p-51 and chose MM Gloss Black as Primer and will be spraying Airframe aluminum. Now my question is I see I have some little Dust Particles on the gloss or remnants of tissue from the cleaning with alcohol prior to priming, Also I sprayed the tanks and doors and they are alot more shinier than I excpected with my color choice they almost look chrome. Any clues on how to get those off I read a compound but they leave a residue.
Automaton
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: August 12, 2007
entire network: 153 Posts
KitMaker Network: 13 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 04:39 AM UTC
Try wet-sanding with 1000 grit followed up with 2000 to get rid of the paint seed. You might be able to knock down the shine a bit by using metalizer sealer. I've never stripped Alclad, so don't know what to tell you there

HTH;

Automaton
Thundergrunt
Visit this Community
California, United States
Member Since: November 01, 2009
entire network: 657 Posts
KitMaker Network: 75 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 11:05 AM UTC
I think i confused u a little, the plane is still gloss black, the gear doors and tanks are painted. can the metalizer sealer be sprayed right out of bottle??
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Member Since: June 09, 2009
entire network: 8,156 Posts
KitMaker Network: 593 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 11:17 AM UTC
You could try sanding the gloss black with the 2000 grit. This should knock down the gloss a bit and remove the offending particles. I use semi-gloss black Tamiya Acrylic as my primer for Alclad, but you also need to remember that by the time you have sprayed your final flat clear coat to protect the decals, and perhaps some weathering, the gloss of the Alclad will be brought way down as well.

If you take a look at the photo's of my build on this page, I have used Alclad Airframe Aluminium over Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black Acrylic.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, D
Automaton
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: August 12, 2007
entire network: 153 Posts
KitMaker Network: 13 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 11:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I think i confused u a little, the plane is still gloss black, the gear doors and tanks are painted. can the metalizer sealer be sprayed right out of bottle??



No, I think I follow you. What I'm understanding is that a. you have some lumps of dust stuck in your black primer coat and are concerned it will show through the metalized finish if you don't get it out first (hence the wet-sanding suggestion), and b. you didn't want quite as shiny a finish as you ended up with on the drop tanks you have already sprayed.

And yep, Testors metalizer sealer is pre-thinned. You might consider experimenting with mixing a bit of Testors laquer system flat into the sealer if you're wanting to really knock the shine on the drop tanks back quite a bit. Might be a good idea to paint up a part from a scrap model with the same process you used on the tanks, then experiment on it to figure out how to get the effect you're after.

HTH;

Automaton

Thundergrunt
Visit this Community
California, United States
Member Since: November 01, 2009
entire network: 657 Posts
KitMaker Network: 75 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 02:44 PM UTC
Ok

I used my testors MM Flat Coat on the tanks and it killed the shine for sure, I went and got some Micro mesh pads, as I could not find any sand paper higher than 600 anywhere even 3 hobby shops. I did what you guys said and it took the particulate things away for sure, and re sprayed and it looked good till I just took the pictures, I foud a blob of paint about the size of a pen top on fuselage above the gear door. so now I have to wait another day to sand that down and hope fully fix the area. I think the invasion stripes will cover it a little too. I also bought a Paint called Floquil "Old Silver" at the train Store today I read or heard somewhere that is a good Mustang color also. But I forgot to ask If it was Enamel or Acryillic?
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Member Since: June 09, 2009
entire network: 8,156 Posts
KitMaker Network: 593 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 03:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I went and got some Micro mesh pads, as I could not find any sand paper higher than 600 anywhere even 3 hobby shops.



You would be much better off going to a hardware store and buy some sheets of wet/dry paper in various grits, then cut them into squares or strips as required. A much cheaper option.

Also, I believe that Floquil Old SIlver is an enamel, so you will need to use their own-brand thinner, or generic lacquer thinner, again from your hardware store.

Cheers, D
Automaton
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: August 12, 2007
entire network: 153 Posts
KitMaker Network: 13 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 03:26 PM UTC
Damian's right, the best source of fine grit sandpapers is a hardware store or even Wal-Mart. Look in the automotive touch-up paint section and you'll find any grit you need up to 2000, and for much cheaper than "hobby specific" abrasives. The one place those micromesh pads do have a place is in car modelling, where they are used to rub down gloss paint jobs to remove orange peel tor an ultra-deep shine (and to some degree in aircraft modeling for canopy polishing). However, unless you have money to burn, even when you truly need crazy fine grits (like 5000, 8000, 10000, etc'), again, it's cheaper to buy sanding films intended for the automotive refinishing industry. They can be found online.

HTH;

Automaton
Thundergrunt
Visit this Community
California, United States
Member Since: November 01, 2009
entire network: 657 Posts
KitMaker Network: 75 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 03:35 PM UTC
Thanks Guys

Ill post up some pics in the WIP thread. Damien Great work, Those Mono P-47s are great. I have 2 in stash a RzrBk and a Bubble. and here is my first Prop I did.

kaiyudsai
Visit this Community
Louisiana, United States
Member Since: October 30, 2011
entire network: 11 Posts
KitMaker Network: 4 Posts
Posted: Monday, February 06, 2012 - 06:03 AM UTC
whern using the alclad high gloss black,..... you have to be very careful ........ dont even touch the surface until you have the metalizer and sealer down..... even the littlest fingerprint will stay..... and def dont go wiping it down with alcohol or anything onf the sort... you will have to start all over....

I spray my black gloss.... place in this cabinet to dry free of dust for about 24 hours.. then I spray my metalizers..... I use the alclad version.... then sealer.....
mrsmod
Visit this Community
United Kingdom
Member Since: March 08, 2012
entire network: 3 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2 Posts
Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2012 - 09:24 PM UTC

Before spraying use a Tack Rag to remove dust particles

Try Micromesh Cloth for polishing between coats

You can matt the paint with Matting Agent

You can get all this from http://restorationsupplies.co.uk they sell everything for restorers of fine china so they know what gets good results

Hope this helps
 _GOTOTOP