Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
Glue Questions
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Missouri, United States
Member Since: June 02, 2009
entire network: 128 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Posted: Friday, October 28, 2011 - 12:23 PM UTC
Okay, my modelling skills are progressing and the kits are getting to have more and more parts... more and more little and littler parts... tiny parts... (need yet another stronger pair of reading glasses again) ... and photo etch.

For a lot of things I've switched from plastic cement to liquid super glue. Right now I have the thick fast setting type (sorry, I'm not at my modelling table right now so I don't remember the brand).

But I'm fast realizing that the thick glue doesn't work well always for the smaller parts... especially the PE detail parts.

I guess I'm trying to figure out the finer points of glue/CA use. Can anyone offer me some guidelines? When and/or where to use which glue(s)? What are the "best practices"?

Oh, and I've heard it recommended that white elmer's glue works best for clear parts (no fogging). But every time I try to use it, the little clear parts pop off a day or two later with even just the slightest accidental touch.

Hope I'm not asking too newbie a question.
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: March 06, 2011
entire network: 3,971 Posts
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2011 - 12:51 PM UTC
For glue I am using Tamiya Liquid (Thick and Thin) for plastic. For small plastic parts I tend to use Tenax 7R, it is a little expensive, so I use it sparringly.

As for PE, regardless of size I use BSI Insta-Cure CA. I use a round tooth pick that I have slotted with my hobby knife to place the glue right where I need it. I find the thin CA flows real well and is good for even small pieces. I do use the slower drying CA when I need a little time to seat or place a piece just right. Again I use a tooth pick to place the CA on the piece.

As for clear pieces I use Testors Clear Part Cement or G-S Hypo Cement. Both dry clear and do not cloud the clear plastic.

I hope that helps a little.
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Utah, United States
Member Since: December 14, 2007
entire network: 3,389 Posts
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2011 - 12:52 PM UTC
For CA glue, I had to experiment with several brands and find one that I could get used to. I use Bob Smith industries odorless CA (it has a black and gold label and is usually labeled by the individual store with their own tag) which is a "standard" thickness glue. In small amounts it sets fine, and it is also safe for clear parts as it doesn't give off the vapors that cause the fogging effect. I also use Gorilla Glue super glue if the part is going to be handled as it seems to have a little more flex.

With CA glue, I only apply a small amount, to the part to be attached if I can manage it, as it helps control how much I put on. Less is better because it dries faster and more reliably. I'm still learning and I occasionally glue the part to myself, my tools or the wrong place on the kit.
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British Columbia, Canada
Member Since: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2011 - 01:18 PM UTC
If I'm putting a flat piece of PE onto a flat surface, I'll use the elixir of the gods: Future : )
You can move your part around until it's juuuuuuuust right, and it won't come off once it's dry. Clear paint works just as well.

For clear parts I use Microscale's Crystal Clear. It's strong, dries *ahem* crystal clear, and you can also make small windows with it. Take a look over in Aeroscale's Aerial Screw Helcopter campaign for a demonstration.
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Nevada, United States
Member Since: September 07, 2005
entire network: 190 Posts
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2011 - 02:55 PM UTC
My weapon of choice when it comes to joining plastic is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in the Testors cement bottle with a fine brush. It evaporates fast, it's cheap (less than $10.00 a pint at Home Depot) but it's a good idea to keep a window cracked when using MEK as it does smell pretty bad if you spill it. Future floor wax for most PE parts along with a couple different thicknesses of Super Glue. If the pe is in an area that poses a great risk for it to get knocked off, use the Gorilla brand super glue and give the glue surface of the pe part a light sanding with 600 or 800 grit sand paper as this will roughen the surface a little giving the super glue something to bite on. I found this out when building AFV Club's M59 Long Tom with the Eduard detail set. I hope this helps.
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Missouri, United States
Member Since: June 02, 2009
entire network: 128 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2011 - 02:31 AM UTC
How simple and straight forward -- a toothpick with a notch carved in it. I never thought of that, but I tried it over the weekend and it worked really well. Thanks!

I also tried sanding the metal-to-plastic-touching side of the PE. That seems to be working pretty well too.
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Croatia Hrvatska
Member Since: November 06, 2009
entire network: 624 Posts
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Posted: Monday, October 31, 2011 - 05:06 AM UTC
Hi, Mike... After a while I settled down with few glue choices. To glue styrene and plastic I use Mr. Hobby - Mr. Cement S, which is very thin liquid cement and is not too aggressive on plastic. I would agree with Jessica on Future, which is also rather neat.

For gluing the PE, unless it really calls for CA, I settled with Gator Glue, which is an acrylic glue and very easy to work with. It bonds really tight, and I find it a good alternative for CA glues.

When it comes to cyanoacrylate's, I recently discovered the Filla-glu range, and they have many interesting CA products of various thicknesses. There is also an odorless range of glues, and really neat sensitive glue for transparencies (and it won't craze them). I am using the Filla-glu for more than two years and I am even considering to switch completely to CA's due to the quality of their products.

Hope this helps! For the applicator, I use mostly good and trusty toothpick, though I "designed" some of my own tools from various wires and needles.