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Modeling in General: Advice on...
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Removing paint from canopies
611_sqd
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: January 24, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 08:22 AM UTC
I airbrushed my canopies, there were 5 for the Japanese Val dive bomber. I had masked them and used the blue liquid mask as backup. I don't like the blue liquid mask only because its very transparent unless you use a lot of it, and it is difficult to see if you have indeed got into all the tiny places. Which I didn't completely. None of the canopies look bad, but there is some paint where it shouldn't be. The paint is dry and not smudged. How can I remove it without scratching the canopy. Getting the paint off is easy with one my pointy files but that will scratch the canopy in the process. Toothpic won't scratch but isnt strong enough to attack the tamiya paint.

Any suggestions?
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 08:38 AM UTC
If you used Tamiya's acrylics, you can soak a cotton swab in amonia based glass cleaner. Simply scrub away. If you used their enamels, I don't know of any removal method that won't cloud the canopies.
611_sqd
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 08:44 AM UTC
All acrylics. I don't use the enam's. Thanks for the suggestion, i'll give it a try.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 09:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Toothpic won't scratch but isnt strong enough to attack the tamiya paint.



Yes, unless the toothpic is slightly dampened with Alcohol or Windex

You should also use a tiny brush to wet the stain with Tamiya thinner. After a little time in my opinion you'll be able to remove the stain with the toothbrush
old-dragon
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 02:09 PM UTC
If you do ever use enamels someday...use Castrol superclean to soak the glass in..won't hurt the glass and will loosen up the paint though it may take a while{lacquer is harder to remove}. I've used this technique on old rehabed cars and trucks with no problems - your AC canopies should be no different.

BTW- nice choice on the plane, one of personnal Japanese faves next to the Ki-61 or Ki-100s.
retiredbee2
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 02:29 PM UTC
Know what I sometimes use instead of liquid mask ? Woodland Scenics liquid rubber. Works pretty good. Try it on a test piece and see how you like it. Takes a couple of coats and dry over night. be patient. It's expensive , used mostly for making molds. you clean the brush by dipping it in Testors liquid glue and twirling the brush on a paper towel..The rubber sort of sets up and you can pull it from the brush. Try it on an old brush first. And by the way, nothing cleans enamel paint from a brush like Tesors liquid glue. After you have cleaned it with mineral spirits , dip it in the glue and roll it on a paper towel you will usually see more paint come off the brush. Works for acrylics too.
611_sqd
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 02:42 PM UTC
On my 1/72's I don't have much trouble. I mean sure if they were in a competition they would wouldn't win, but I build kits for fun and to be better than the die cast planes I used to collect. So for that I do ok. On this 1/48 though it shows. I struggle terribly with the cutting up the masking tape. Try as i might they are never the right size and drive me crazy, but yeah I am looking for alternatives to the blue. So I am willing to try different things

@bob If asked I will always say I am a Spit/Luftwaffe dude, but looking at my stash (only 10 in it) but I have japanese aircraft in it than anything else.

Thanks for the suggestions. It is appreciated.
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 10:14 PM UTC

Quoted Text

...by dipping it in Testors liquid glue and twirling the brush on a paper towel..The rubber sort of sets up and you can pull it from the brush. ...And by the way, nothing cleans enamel paint from a brush like Tesors liquid glue. After you have cleaned it with mineral spirits , dip it in the glue and roll it on a paper towel you will usually see more paint come off the brush. Works for acrylics too.


Want to ruin a good brush? Dip it in glue!
Emeritus
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 02:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

...by dipping it in Testors liquid glue and twirling the brush on a paper towel..The rubber sort of sets up and you can pull it from the brush. ...And by the way, nothing cleans enamel paint from a brush like Tesors liquid glue. After you have cleaned it with mineral spirits , dip it in the glue and roll it on a paper towel you will usually see more paint come off the brush. Works for acrylics too.


Want to ruin a good brush? Dip it in glue!


Well, I'd say it depends on the glue.
As a pretty accurate rule of thumb: the thinner the liquid cement, the more solvent it contains. Some of the most watery-thin cements contain little in the way of additives that form residue.

The 2/0 brush I use for applying Tamiya extra thin is still in great condition after several years of use.
Grauwolf
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 02:28 AM UTC
Ahoy Aaron,
The toothpick method has worked great for me with all paints.
Remember to cut the tips at an angle, this will have a chisel effect
and will work better.
Also a very gentle scrapping with a hobby knife and a fine blade,
will remove any excess paint.
If you are worried about scuffing, dip the canopy in FUTURE floor
wax....this will make any scuff marks and scratches disappear.
Cheers,
Joe
retiredbee2
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 02:58 AM UTC
Matt....I have never had a problem with the glue hurting the brush. The glue dissolves the paint much better than thinner. I imagine if you use some sort of plastic bristled brush or a brush with a plastic bristle holder instead of metal the glue will melt it , but regular sable brushes with metal holders don't seem to be affected.
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