I realize that this is a military model web site and I build military models. However I deviated from that topic and have built a Revell 1:25 scale model of a Bill Signs Trucking Peterbilt 359 which has lots of chrome parts. When those parts are removed from the frame, there is a small area of the chrome that is removed. Does anyone know of anything that could restore those small areas of missing chrome? I have Model Master chrome silver enamel but that doesn't even come close. Also does anyone know of a kit for a 1:25 scale multi-axle lowboy trailer that would go with the Peterbilt tractor? I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
Dallas Freeborn

For the chrome, depending on how much you're willing to to spend, you can send off all of the parts for chroming. A lot of car modellers do this. You can also try burnishing down Bare Metal Foil over the offending spot. The smoother you clean up the removal point the better it will look. You can burnish it down until the edge almost disappears completely,
You can also do what I do in real life, as don't care for chrome on my 1:1 builds - brush the chrome with Scotch-Brite. It'll blend right in with that silver paint, and actually looks pretty cool

For the trailer, there's this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AMT-ERTL-Lowboy-Drop-Deck-Trailer-Truck-Sealed-MIB-1-25-/220801678881?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3368ce3e21

And this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/REVELL-1-25-07533-Heavy-Duty-Trailer-/250824407045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a664cb805

And this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AMT-LOWBOY-TRAILER-LOADCRAFT-PLASTIC-KIT-1-25-MODEL-KIT-/360378037906?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e8347692

The Revell offering seems especially plentiful on Ebay.

To remove chromed coating:
http://www.ehow.com/how_2241739_remove-chrome-from-model-car.html

http://t4besttime.blogspot.com/2007/11/how-to-remove-chrome-parts-from-model.html

To restore chromed coating you should also use little pieces of home metal foils and Microscale metal foil glue. That would be cheaper

http://www.oldmodelkits.com/blog/plasitc-model-kits-how-tos/foiling-plastic-and-resin-model-kits-for-realism-by-ken-friend/

Probably you've already known, but anyway I'd tell you to be careful because plastic glue doesn't work on chromed parts, so before gluing them you have to scrape away with a knife or sandpaper the chromed coating from the contact surfaces

Robert: Thank you very much for your help. I have ordered one of the AMT lowboy trailers. I probably will leave the chrome situation alone since the truck is already built. Incidentally I live just east of you in Kansas.
Dallas

Mauro: Thank you for your reply and helpful advice. I am especially interested in the foil application technique.
Dallas

Retired, I hope you find that trailer alot cheaper than what I saw...keep hunting around ebay and you should be able to.
I've built a few semis in my time here and what I've done for chrome sprue touch-ups was to use Alcclad II chrome lacquer paint. BMF is close but not enough for me, so I've tried a simple tecnique with the alclad by brushing it on the spot where the tree was attached. Start off by fine snading the area to be touched up so it's smooth and blended well. The alclad is meant to be airbrushed on so in this case the stuff goes on super thin so multiple applications will the order for the day. Use a thin/fine brush and touch the area that needs to be redone...let it dry for a day....hit it again the same way the next day...let it dry for a day - repete till your happy.
Another way is to take all the chrome pieces and strip them with castrol super power cleaner - depending on the chrome coating it takes anywhere from 15min to an evening to strip chrome. Some parts may need the aid of an old toohtbrush to remove little areas that are stubborn. Wash your ands really well if you dunk them in to retrieve the parts as this stuff will dry your hands out if it's left on.
When the parts are stripped you mount them on anything to be able to spray them with a black gloss enamel paint{AB/rattle can or brush for small parts} and then when that's dry hit them with the alclad II chrome thru an AB. Let each coat dry for nearly a day then recoat and dry again...give them about 3-4 coats and let them dry for 1-2 weeks[really} before dry buffing with a micro clothe -"don't use any polish on them or it will turn the coating to clear and undo your work!!!{uhm, just trust me on that one!{ouch}
If you build another truck, car or semi come visit us in the Automodeler forums -we'd love to see your work and/or help if you need it!
{occasional armor now mostly shiney things convert}
PS- we have the "Chevy vs Hemi{mopar} campaign" going on now and as part of the builds{one of each} we also have required bashing of brands along the way...pick your side or love some other brand and laugh at us along the way...it'll be entertaining either way.

So very true...except from what I've seen of using CA. Standard gap filling or thin CA can fog paint or clear parts - I like using the "foam safe CA" which hasn't done that to me yet. The main problem with shiney stuff kits is the inevitable need to attach things after the paint has gone on which means not only scraping the chrome glue surface{s} but the body painted attachment surfaces too so you have a good plastic to plastic weld/bond. I however have built a few resin bodied semis...come on armor guys, you've had resin pieces or kits so you know what I'm saying here, and in this situation a good glue bond is going to be CA or epoxy, so I've just stuck{terrible pun there!} with gluing last minute things on with foam safe CA for everything -but that's me.

Micromark carries a home chrome plating system. It's a little pricey, but you can chrome whatever you want.

Bob: Thanks for the info. The automodeler forum sounds interesting. Is it just automodeler.com? You say that you are 45. I am almost twice your age. I am 81 and still going strong.
Dallas