i didn't see what you used to help the decals set up before you applied future topcoat. i use white vinegar to set my decals and after that dries then its the last future coating. i have a few academy models that are around 5 or 6 years old, and no decal problems. if you choose to try it this way please let me know your results.

reb

Academy decals are superb if you use Gunze Mr. Mark Softer. They go down just like paint with this product.

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Academy decals are superb if you use Gunze Mr. Mark Softer. They go down just like paint with this product.

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I think I am gong to try the vinegar route, as I have quite a lot of it.

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Academy decals are superb if you use Gunze Mr. Mark Softer. They go down just like paint with this product.

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I think I am gong to try the vinegar route, as I have quite a lot of it.

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I read a while time ago on a modeller magazine that if you want to make an home made decals softner you' have to use a mixture between Acetic acid and water (If I remember in a right way the ratio was 30% acid 70% distilled water)
You can use vinegar but it could be less effective. If you decide to use vinegar in my opinion you should use a cheap one because cheapest vinegars are more acid then they are more aggressive with decals

I hope this could help you

You're welcome

Be careful vinegar is white. Red one may stain the decals in my opinion

cheers

Yes, I can tell.

Good Luck

I don't advise using vinegar on these decals.

Micro Set has a bit of acetic acid in it, if that doesn't work then the stronger solution that is regular vinegar definitely will not

Gunze Mr. Mark Setter is formulated for these types of decals, especially large stubborn ones being placed over compound surfaces. If you're not doing this, if your surface is relatively flat, then Mark Softer will do.

But even so Matt, I took numbers from a Tamiya sheet and placed them over zimmerit, then a few applications of Mark Softer, and they sucked down right over the corrugated surface.

If you do use it, one item to remember is not to freak out when they start to crinkle on the surface, do not touch or disturb them, they will flatten out.

This stuff is designed for Tamiya, Hasegawa, Academy, Dragon and other Asian decals, but also works on Cartograf decals with superb results.

I don't advise using vinegar on these decals.

Micro Set has a bit of acetic acid in it, if that doesn't work then the stronger solution that is regular vinegar definitely will not

Gunze Mr. Mark Setter is formulated for these types of decals, especially large stubborn ones being placed over compound surfaces. If you're not doing this, if your surface is relatively flat, then Mark Softer will do.

But even so Matt, I took numbers from a Tamiya sheet and placed them over zimmerit, then a few applications of Mark Softer, and they sucked down right over the corrugated surface.

If you do use it, one item to remember is not to freak out when they start to crinkle on the surface, do not touch or disturb them, they will flatten out.

This stuff is designed for Tamiya, Hasegawa, Academy, Dragon and other Asian decals, but also works on Cartograf decals with superb results.