I'm having a really hard time joining styrene at 90 degree angles. Is there a beveling tool or a foolproof technique for beveling the edge of a sheet? This is getting expensive!

Thanks!

John A.

You didn't say whether the joint had a hidden side or not...like a semi truck box or body...if a joint has a hidden side you can use thinner sheet to overlap the corner. For me, to do a 90 degree joint, I set one piece flat and slide the other piece onto it's edge and bond with liquid cement{brush on type-not tube type} and if said joint is heavily stressed for some reason I'd lay another short piece of flat strip stock over the open end of the 1st joint and then another up against that.....say your using .030 thick main sheet - I'd suggest using .015-.020 strips to reinforce the joint if needed. For an inner reinforcement piece you can also use lil 90 degree corner stock pieces too.
You really don't want to 45 degree bevel the pieces to be joined as that would be alot of work and hassle....the above common overlap joint should do ya fine.
Tell us what are you making and how are you attaching it together that's giving you trouble. I've scratched a few 1/24 semi truck van boxes, an emergency rescue body and other sheet made items, as well as others have around here...we can figure this one out!

well, I'm trying to build a vehicle hull, of an M29 Weasel in 1/35 scale. I don't want any visible open ends, or outside reinforcement. I will use interior strips for that, but the problem remains. For example:

The top deck meets the side armor at 90 degrees. If I bevel both edges at 45 degrees, it will produce the desired result - but I can't seem to do it evenly or consistently.

I'm not sure what you meant by "hidden side..."

Thanks!

John A.

John, the "hidden side" would one that when the object is built, that side isn't visible so one could add stiffeners to it without them being seen.
I know of the vehicle your building..neat piece.
Question, what's to keep you from joining at 90 or any angle degrees and then sanding/filling to smooth it out for no seems visible when done? I did that with my 1/25 Swab rescue body - she had alot of rounded curves on all sides{old body style} and I didn't want any seems where they should'nt be so I sanded and filled as needed to hide all those...I'm half way thru building an old Dodge LT-1000 cabover cab{semi truck} in 1/25 and there's plenty of places where I don't want the joints seen...yours, mine and nearly everybody's projects are all the same this way.

Here, check out the early stages of the rescue body...no, I didn't keep it that acid green{lol}.


...alot of filler in these two as well-





...I fill armor too...{steam punk theme steam tank}


...nothing is sacred from filler!







When done right, filler is an allie and you can't tell it's there- that's what it's for - try it bud.

I guess I didn't consider sanding and filling; I've had some good results with sculpting but my attempts to fill gaps always look like... attempts to fill gaps!

Question: how do you NOT leave sanding marks all over the parts that are supposed to be smooth? You make it look so easy

I admit I'm shocked that no one's come up with an easy beveling technique. I wonder if there's a market for a simple tool? I've got a few ideas for one...

I'll try sanding the joints and let you know how it goes. Thanks!

John A.

I'm nobody special..just have a few attempts under my belt, that's all.
As for leaving no marks that's an easy one;
-1st off, the secret to a good fill job is to layer thin layers{.020ish} one at a time and never glop it on thick....and a clean subject for the filler to go onto is always a good practice as well. Soap and water with an air dry will remove any finger oil for best adhesion results.
Use whatever you like to apply it with....popcicle stick, scrap piece of strip stock{my fave- but that's me}...just don't use your fingers.
Let it dry for a good day then work it with sanding sticks or sand paper - use high grit, meaning 400 for fairly quick takedown and 600-800 or more for a nice smooth finish...I've seen guys use 1200plus grit and get it as smooth as glass.
Fill the area{s} then sand flush so it's nearly transparent around the edges for a smooth blend..I like wet sanding not only to rinse the excess away but to clean the piece up as well.
Seal with a good automotive primer and your ready for paint...gloss thru flat. If you should see any pin holes or lines where it's not blended well enough just rehit with filler or sanding till your happy.......take your time and take it to the level your happy with and you'll like the results.
Me, I happen to like two types of filler...and like anyone "these are My faves" but as we all know, everyone has a favorite glue, paint company product and well, filler is no different here. My choices are simple Squadron green putty filler...I have some white around here somewhere but have not used it yet- . The other is Bondo glazing putty made for cars{real ones} but it works for models too. The Bondo glazing putty WILL crack when it dries if you put it on too thick and sometimes even tries to crack if it's thin...however...one can simply overfill that with another filler and be fine. Perhaps I didn't squish it enough to mix it well...some of those sit on the shelf for awhile and try to separate - I think mine did!
As for the beveling tool...I don't know man...there's alot of folks who have just and will just do the oldschool thing by joining two pieces together in an overlap joint - 9.9 out of 10 folks do, but that doesn't mean to take the wind out of your sail for the beveling tool idea. I would ask you this though my friend, which would be less work to achieve your goal, beveling all the mating surfaces, then gluing, then sanding and hoping for no gaps or anything to fill...or...mate parts in the overlap fashion and sand and fill as needed{kinda faster if ya know what I mean}. You can always add some square stock or another lap joint for areas that need a good rounding or added strength- any triangle stock you may see is usually not designed to be used in a 90 degree corner or at least not very well{I've tried}.
Hey- I don't/won't tell people how to build models or what to build so this applies here, and if your heart tells you to bevel, well then bevel to your hearts content...whatever makes "you" happy. I'm just giving you some insite as to the world of lap joints and filler as an "option" for you...it works for me, but that's me.
The one thing I just haven't gotten to do right yet is paint figures of any scale...I can weather and shade cars, trucks and the like, but not worth a darn on figures...sounds stupid huh! ....one of these decades I'll nail it. Now, let's see some work on that badboy!

I agree completely with Mr. Chawgo. Don't bevel them, if it can be helped. That being said; If you must bevel, try a hobby router or mini mill.

You really don't even need filler. To make a 90 degree joint, just let one piece overhang the joint a bit. Wet the pieces two or three times to get them good and gooey near the joint, then press the pieces together hard. A little goo should squeeze out of the joint. Let it cure for a day, then trim the joint lamost flush, and lay the piece that did not overlap on a piece of wet/dry paper, and sand lightly with a circular motion. I've done this many times on extended Centurion hulls and several scratchbuilds. The joint will disappear completely.

True, this is why I really like brush on cement and use tube glue just for larger sheets to be joined/sandwiched but sometimes on larger lap joints{a couple of inches long} here's spots that will require a lil void being filled because you just can't get good pressure on there across the ways....smaller joinings squish easier and usually don't require filler - luck of the draw there too on either.

Thank you, gentlemen! I'll do my best. I'll post some pictures here too, but it'll be awhile because I'm waiting on supplies in the mail...

Happy modeling!

John A.