I have read that people solder their PE parts. In was wondering if you can use the cold type solder guns or do you need the old style soldering irons? And what type of solder do you use?

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff, the cold type irons don't work well for soldering PE, here is a good article that may help get you started.

Mike
http://www.indy-amps.org/articles/soldering/soldering.html

A very useful link

Thanks a lot Mike

Mike great link thank you. Looks like I need to head to Radio Shack soon!

hmm, I had troubles trying to solder PE with a regular soldering iron. a lot of the heat just went through the copper, and I had a hard time with the solder. What I do now is use a gas operated solder. it keeps on the heat (which is quite high - even at low level) and is easier to use (no electric cord). you need to buy some butane gas here and there, but I think it's worth it.

Matan,
Is that an open flame?

Jeff

Jeff, yes and no. The answer depends on the brand you buy really. Here is one that is butane powered but has a more traditional soldering tip which is heated up by the flame.
http://www.pro-iroda.com/pro70.htm
There are others that actually work more like a very small blow torch.

Mike

well, you get a screw-able head that lets you use it as a torch (open flame) and one that looks just like a regular soldering iron, but with a metal mesh in the middle so you can ignite the gas (the flame is inside). hope it answers your question.
the soldering iron in the link Mike Land posted is just like mine. you can get it at radio shack. if you have the money, you may want to go for something more professional like the dremel gas solder, but this one will do just as well for PE.
P.S: I use both heads when I solder PE.

Okay thanks. That butane solder likes great. It is great not to have any cords in the way.

that's a nice article. just couple of things that popped up while reading:
1) when you solder using a torch, you need to keep extra focus on the PE - even more than you would usually do. not only as it's open flame, but as the flame will get the brass really hot, and you may cause it to pass the solder's melting point, which will leave you with a liquid drop of solder, until the temperature is lowered.
2) again, when using the torch option, you got to set the parts and the solder in certain positions (you get those with experience) as the flame causes the air to "move" (sorry, can't explain it better) and sometimes move your solder (so you get to chase it around your workbench with the flame still going, which - as my experience has shown me, will catch on fire )

Thanks Brian I will have to look into some supplies soon. Nice article on why the torch would work better. Might have to pick up some PE ammo boxes or something to practice.

Jeff