I have the Osprey Masterclass book "Armour Modelling" and have been reading/highlighting prior to this build but am slightly confused about some things dealing with single track links.

In the book it says to make 2 strips of track(for each side), I'm assuming using all the pieces for the kit (thus making 4 strips of track). It then says to "measure the gap between the front and rear of the track and make a note of its length on the tops and bottoms of the wheels, now assemble enough tracks to fill those gaps.

I got kind of lost. I was wondering if I just build 2 sections of track for each side, glue one end to the sprocket, the other to the idler but leave unattached in the middle, and paint that way. Once painting if finished cement track together in the middle, slide on idler and sprocket, cement, done. Road wheels are painted and cemented before tracks are attached yes?

If I'm waaay off(which I could be because I did a lot of reading this morning) please correct me. This Dragon kit has got me in over my head, I hope once it gets here it proves easier than I think. Thanks for the help!

Hi Jaredt what it basically means is make a straight run of tracks to place under the roadwheels a straight run to go along the top, make sure to factor in track sag for german or russian armour then the fill the gaps part means adding a set of links (while the glue isn't fully dry so the tracks are still moveable) to wrap around the drive sprocket, and idler wheel connecting the top run and bottom run. hope that helps, that's just my take on what you've said. Ant

That makes sense, somewhat what I thought. Thanks!

Jared;

I'm no expert on anything, let alone the single-links track, but.... done several brands (Dragon, Tristar, Trumpeter, Masterbox, Mirage) and mostly with small tanks (with tiny, frail links in tight places), and all have worked out at least OK - to absolutely stunning... so, I'll offer you my approach and maybe it'll help...

I make up one entire run for the side and lightly glue it by passing the little brush of thin cement over all the inside (wheel side) of the tracks. I let the cement dry in and set a bit - generally 10 mins or so. The track-run is still quite flexible, but strong enough to not just fall apart.

I check the positions of my running gear (road-wheels, sprockets, idlers, rollers - all generally either simply friction-fit in place or temp-tacked with some white glue or other sticky), and lead my track run in from one end, guide it over the rollers, pull it down around both idlers and sprockets and bring the ends together on the bottom beneath some road-wheel.

I set the tank on a flat, and go around wedging kleenex or cotton balls on top the track to set sag, carefully snug the track around the sprocket and idler, and let her dry for several hours. When dry, pull all the track (and also some running gear) off as a unit. Strip out the wheels and get on with wheel and track - painting.

To assemble: I mount and glue the painted roadies on and usually the sprocket (IF there is enough space beneath the fender to fit the track in over the teeth). I then fit the track on, and fit the idler and rollers in beneath it. Lastly, pull the track ends together and glue them as needed on the bottom - follow up with detail painting and weathering as desired.

My approach, again, centers around doing the whole side as one single run - fot and drape it, let it dry, remove and paint and re-fit to finish.

It works, and well, or so I think. Maybe give it a try?

Bob

That sounds perfect! And really close to how I was thinking of approaching it. Thanks! I'll give it a shot.

that's sounds like a good approach there Bob, never actually thought of doing it like that, but after reading your approach to tackling indy links, might just have a go myself thanks. Ant