Anyone who has spent anytime building models be it auto to armorer has needed to produce a part. The most common way to do this is with resin poured in to mold. The drawback is the expense of this process. The system shown here is very inexpensive and within the abilities of most modelers.

[center]A quick note on safety[/center]
This method requires heating plastic to about 400F be sure to work with gloves and work in a well ventilated area.



The above picture is my master ( a 1/35th scale American WW2 Helmut with goggles) mounted on a base. The Helmut is a cast of an original I did and the goggles are from the spare parts box. This could be almost any part you'd like to copy.

This next picture shows the basic items needed to create a mold, they are a tube of 100% silicone rubber $5.00, a used paint brush, a paper cup, plastic spatula and a can of non stick spray cooking oil about $1.00.

The next step is to spray some of the non-stick cooking oil into the paper cup. Then with the old brush, completely coat the object and base, then squeeze a portion of silicone onto the base

With the spatula,coated in cooking oil, begin to press the silicone up and around the item. Ensure that the whole piece is covered by a 1/4in to 1/2 in layer of silicone. Something to remember is that the current top of the mold will become the bottom when being cast. I like to keep the top flat and make the mold rectangular. This helps me orient future cuts.

After the silicone has been left to cure for at least 24hrs, longer for larger molds, carefully separate the mold from the base. This was done with a #11 exacto blade.

Next I"m making two cuts so I can remove my original piece.

Here is the hollow mold, and the original Helmut.

After you have your mold begins the process of making duplicates. Pictured above are the items needed to do this they are: A toaster oven, as low as $10.00 even less at thrift stores. sprue cut with wire cutters into 1/4in lengths, a drill bit for press soften plastic into the mold. and a glove to protect from heat.

Heat the oven to about 400F, with the know upside down mold place a piece of sprue into the empty cavity.Place inside the oven and let heat for 15minutes.
As you can see my oven has taken a beating over the last three years. At 400F plastic will only become soft an ply able it will not catch on fire, even so never leave your work unattended.
I'm lucky my oven only cooks for 15minutes at a time. So I know when to remove the mold, at this point using the blunt end of the drill bit press the soften plastic into the mold, add another piece of sprue. Reheat again. The size of the object determines how many times to repeat the process. At the left hand side of the oven tray is another mold it's a two piece mold of a basic 1/24th figure. During the time I cast these Helmut's I also cast three figure mannequins a couple of rifles two sets of arms, four heads and numerous other odds and ends.

This last shot is of three Helmut's I cast.
Just to be clear This is not a commercial quality cast and they need lots of work to become usable. For me the cheapness of the casts far out weight the time needed to clean the pieces up. Plastic is a very forgiving medium, in that if it comes out messed up it can be reused, also you are not limited to Sprue (although it's the best) I,ve used plastic forks, desirable razors, computer plastic ect.....
[center]anyway hope you get something out of this.[/center]

Instead of all that heating and adding plastic sprue, how about mixing some Durhams Rock Hard water putty, injecting it in with a syringe minus the needle and cut to the diameter of the syringe. You then vibrate the bubbles out with an electric tooth brush or some other means and then leave it alone over twenty four hours. Works for me most of the time. Air bubbles being the main problem. The clarity of the piece comes out great otherwise. As for real thin parts like rifles my method might not work so well because they may break , removing them from the mold......................Al

I like it Anthony. Thank you for sharing your idea. Will have to try it out soon. - Bobby

Thanks for the step-by-step. That's a way to use all that extra sprue material for sure

thanks Guys: for the input: Alfred, I've used Rock Hard om other projects, and you are right as is it wouldn't do well for thin item: such as weapons, but if you mix it in with resin it works great. Additionally it turns clear resin to an off tan. You still have o work with bubbles but I've got some good cast this way

nice . i will use this .
instead of cooking the spare sprue could you mix it with ambroid pro-weld for example and "pour" it in ?

I'll put sprue in a closed jar with Acetone, it turned to liquid-like substance not enough to pour,but was plyable to press into a mold. The only drawback is it took forever to dry out an dit stinks. This was a new idea. I read about some years back in a mag called Military Modeller. If you try your Idea please let me Know.

O.K., I see the various beautiful works in your photo profile. I can see how the leather flaps on your Gladiator would have been cast piece-by-piece. But, how about the arms and hands on the Marine wearing the campaign hat--were these arms and hands cast from other kit parts? Were they then carved and modified? Were the arms, and fingers built up with soft plastic?

Pertaining to your fine B.A.R. man, in Italy--It is beautiful and interesting. I want to share, here, the remarks of a B.A.R. man who served with the 6th Armored Infantry Battalion, First Armored Division, in Italy. My Uncle served with him. The B.A.R. man told me that he carried four ammo belts, when heading out on patrol, in Italy.

Rick Thanks for your thoughts and questions. Most of my figures are cast in section, kinda like most mainstream kits. I have a base torso (neck to toes) mold for figures 1/48 to 1/12. Next I have molds of heads I've done along the way. Then I use arm and hand molds. Once the Parts are cast I come in with a hotknife (wood burner) use the heat ot get the pose, then use the knife to layer in the uniform. Next I'll make the weapond ect..... Just like putting a figure kit toghter. The info on the BAR will be quie useful for the next one thanks again.