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Butane soldering torch for PE - suggestions?
panzerbob01
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Louisiana, United States
Member Since: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 12:12 PM UTC
Hi, All! I need some guidance!

Anyone have experience with using a butane soldering iron or pencil or torch for assembling brass PE? I am thinking of buying one, and would appreciate some advice as to which one to get, the "ups" and "downs" of these over electric solder-pencils, etc. Thanks!
Sabot
Member Since: December 18, 2001
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Posted: Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 02:21 AM UTC
I've got one I picked up from Radio Shack. It works well and there's no cord. You need to buy the butane fuel, the cap works like a bic lighter to start the flame. It is relatively inexpensive, like $5 IIRC.
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 10:28 AM UTC
You could use a soldering iron. You can pick one of these up just about anywhere for a few $$.
viper29_ca
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New Brunswick, Canada
Member Since: October 18, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 02:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

soldering iron is no good, not if you want a clean finish. for which you'll need to use as little solder as possible so the capillary action would suck all the solder into the gaps and leave nothing to clean up. You want something that heats a small radius quickly. Torch is the more traditional method. Any torch butane lighter will work, but try to get one with a good igniter so it doesn't break and you won't need to light it with another lighter, which will take away one of your hands that can be used to position your PE.

Better yet if you invested in a resistance solder like those sold by american beauty. They only heat the regions between your 2 probes, and the probes work sort of like tweezers so you can put both of your hands into action, can really speed things up.

trick is to get the smallest soldering wires you can find. I'm using 0.3mm solders. Cut them to 1mm segments and place those before applying heat. Small amount of soldering paste helps too.



That is painting all soldering irons into the same corner.

No your general run of the mill big soldering gun wouldn't be practical....but your pencil style soldering iron like used in electronics will work just as well. I have a variable pencil style soldering iron that goes from 0 to 40W, and works like a charm for soldering PE, no real difference to the butane powered irons other than it plugs in instead of running on butane.

The secret to getting good soldered joints isn't in the tool, but the use of soldering flux, a little bit of that on the parts you are soldering, and the solder will get sucked into the joint very nicely.
viper29_ca
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New Brunswick, Canada
Member Since: October 18, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 03:19 PM UTC
Any butane pencil soldering iron I have ever used at my former job worked no differently than a plug in model...you still had to touch the item being soldered to heat it up so that the solder would flow into it and create the bond.

There was a tip you could get that would blow the hot gases from the butane burning out the side of the tip, but it wouldn't be hot enough to heat the item enough to have the solder flow into a hole or crack you needed solder into. Good for heating shrink tubing, but that was about it.
HawkeyeV
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Wisconsin, United States
Member Since: September 20, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, November 07, 2010 - 03:29 AM UTC
I suggest getting yourself a
Weller CHT100 LER Professional Cold Heat Soldering Iron
These are contact soldiering irons that work well on delicate things such as PE. You must remember that with any soldiering, your contact points must be clean to accept the soldier.

One of the guys in our club does some fantastic work in brass...he gave a demo at one of our club meetings and he uses a Cold Heat unit.

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