Hey

First model I've built in a long time, and this is rather a stupid question in my opinion. But how the hell, do I get parts of the sprue with out damaging them?

The Model in question is a 1/35th Dragon StuG Ausf.F so the parts are nothing spectacular. But I'm having real trouble with the road wheels. And namely getting them off with out damage and then having to file/sand them leaving minor imperfections. (I guess this will also help later on in the model)

I'm not expecting miracles, this is my first model. But I wish to have at least some 100% parts.

Edit: Whilst I'm here - any particular tools I need. I have a scapel, rounded file, fine sandpaper and a cheap paintbrush to help clear glue. And also a cutting mat.

And what glue? I currently use Revell Liquid glue... but I've grown to dislike this.

Cheers all.
Chris

Invest in a good set of side cutters with a narrow cutting tip. This will allow you to get the parts off without trying to force an X-acto blade or similar type through the plastic and into your thumb or other body part. When you cut the little nub off of the part you want to use, trim gradually, whittling the nub down. If you slice from one side alone you may end up tearing or forcing the base of the nub, taking more plastic off than you wanted. My experience with Dragon is that their plastic is soft but prone to this tearing effect, so don't cut too close to the part.

As for cement, I have used Tamiya extra thin with nice results. Low fumes, good connecting strength and easy to work with. I also have Testors liquid cement in the black bottle with the metal applicator tube tip for big areas.

Get the new Xuron 2175ET Professional Sprue Cutter. Best thing out there for cutting parts off the sprue.
I use Tamiya extra thin cement (green cap) and Tamiya liquid cement (white cap).
Great stuff!

Hi Chris,

If you haven't got side or sprue cutters then nail clippers can do just the job.
Once the wheels are off I usually trim the majority off with a scalpel and then sand the wheel all round to give it a bit of a worn look.
Glue wise I normally use Humbrol Liquid Poly (in the glass jar) with an old thin paint brush. If I can get some I'll try out Tamiya's extra thin. I tried the Revell glue (inthe blue container with metal spout) but wasn't to happy with the lack of control the spout offered.

Have fun, Paul

Hey, Cheers for all the replies. I'll have to invest in some sprue cutters then.

And I'm glad it's not just me then who has trouble. I was thinking 'omg, this shouldn't be happening the guys on the forums wheels don't look like this'

I guess it is the case of practice makes perfect. And it's my first model. As long as it looks like a tank at the end, I had fun and the goal is complete. Haha.

And Paul, thats the exact glue I use. It sucks, no control at all as it just spills out of the spout and doesn't sit where you want it too. Especially in small fiddly places such as the wheel groove things.

So I'll go with the suggested Tamiya stuff, everyone recommends it. So it must be good.

Cheers all

Chris,

Another glue "tip" is to buy the smallest detail paintbrush you can find (my current one is a Revell 4/0 brush that I think I got from a Modelzone store) to use as your glue applicator. I find the cap-mounted brushes in bottles are a bit big and hold way too much glue - the tiny paintbrush helps me get the glue exactly where I want it with minimal excess slopping around.

The tip will dry hard between modelling sessions, but will soften again after a few seconds in the liquid glue. Just remember not to use it for painting! I usually get about 6 months out of mine before the hairs are so scraggly that I need a replacement...

Hope this helps!

Tom

Again, Cheers guys.

Tom, I shall use that advice as well. When I'm next paid I shall take a trip down to my model shop, buy the tamiya glues and a fine paint brush.

I've found you lack ANY control what so ever with the Revell Liquid glue with the metal spout. It just drips out, and before you can apply it with the brush it's already gone everywhere but where You need it.

One last thing, as If I really needed more videos to watch on youtube. But are there any decent tutorials for beginners on the tube? For armor builds?

I saw this thread this morning and it's surprising what one can pick up on this site. I read Matthew's suggestion about the Xuron Sprue cutter and read some reviews about it on the 'Net. I needed some paint and glue (Plastruct Plastic Weld) so I went to the local hobby shop. The LHS doesn't stock a whole lot but imagine my surprise when in the tools section I saw the Xuron cutter. I didn't hesitate and snapped up the only one they had for a little over $12.00.

I've been working on a couple of 1/72 scale projects so when I got home I gave the new cutters a spin. WHERE HAVE THEY BEEN ALL MY LIFE!!!! Sorry for shouting but those things are utterly fantastic. Tiny lifting eyes for a Dragon Sherman were cut off the sprue almost virtually flush. Road wheels cut with almost no sanding required. Thanks for pointing these out to me.

Cheers,
Jan

Hey Jan, you're welcome! Would I lie to you? I love those cutters!

Well, it looks like Xuron sprue cutters are must. Cheers for the confirmation Jan.

Hey Chris, when you buy the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement you'll find that you don't need a 0000 brush to apply it. It comes with a very tiny, thin, pointed brush in the cap. That, and the thinness of the cement, is what experienced model builders love about this stuff. I save empty Tamiya Extra Thin bottles and put other brands in the bottle, just for the brush.

I add my voice to the xuron cutters. Absolutely great. As far as cement goes, i always use revell contacta with the metal needle.