_GOTOBOTTOM
 Community Forum: Filipino Modelers Phorum
Want to meet up with modelers in your country or region? This is the place.
Enamel wash!!!
rysorne
Visit this Community
Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: April 28, 2002
entire network: 115 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2003 - 03:27 PM UTC
Anybody knows the mixture & procedure of enemal wash? I did mostly acrylic wash,is it almost the same of acryl wash? :-)
LaTtEX
Visit this Community
Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: May 13, 2003
entire network: 292 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2003 - 06:06 PM UTC
it's practically the same, but be careful to make sure that the paint has dried for at least a few days before applying an enamel wash, because the wash's thinner might still strip the underlying paint, in the case it also is enamel.
rysorne
Visit this Community
Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: April 28, 2002
entire network: 115 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 11:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

it's practically the same, but be careful to make sure that the paint has dried for at least a few days before applying an enamel wash, because the wash's thinner might still strip the underlying paint, in the case it also is enamel.

: :-) Thanks,Lat, coz I have a lots of enamel paints & I want to try the enamel wash.
GIBeregovoy
Visit this Community
Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: May 31, 2002
entire network: 1,612 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,129 Posts
Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 01:16 PM UTC
Re: enamel wash, I use it more and more exclusively as my wash, rather than oil or acrylic. Essentially, I use used-thinner. Saves on thinner and you recycle it. The "trick" is applying a gloss coat over the base paint before wash. That way, the enamel wash won't hurt the base paint. Make sure, though, that the over-coat is a different 'material', i.e. lacquer. If it is acrylic, chances are the enamel wash strip off the over coat. Same with enamel over-coats. Hence use lacquer overcoats. In terms of strength in ascending order:

1) Acrylic
2) Enamel
3) Lacquer.

Hence, if you use lacquer overcoat, it won't be damaged by an enamel wash. The only thing that'll strip off lacquer is lacquer itself or too much turpentine.

Make sure the gloss coat is completely dry before wash. Then apply enamel wash. When satisfied, you either do your dry brushing or (in my case) apply a flat coat then dry brush. The flat coat over the wash protects it from dry brushing mistakes.
shonen_red
Visit this Community
Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: February 20, 2003
entire network: 5,762 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,610 Posts
Posted: Sunday, July 27, 2003 - 11:37 PM UTC
Almost the same. If the underlying paint is enamel, put topcoat first before doing the enamel wash to prevent the base coat from stripping away. If the base coat is acrylic, I still suggest putting a topcoat.
rysorne
Visit this Community
Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: April 28, 2002
entire network: 115 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Monday, July 28, 2003 - 09:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Re: enamel wash, I use it more and more exclusively as my wash, rather than oil or acrylic. Essentially, I use used-thinner. Saves on thinner and you recycle it. The "trick" is applying a gloss coat over the base paint before wash. That way, the enamel wash won't hurt the base paint. Make sure, though, that the over-coat is a different 'material', i.e. lacquer. If it is acrylic, chances are the enamel wash strip off the over coat. Same with enamel over-coats. Hence use lacquer overcoats. In terms of strength in ascending order:

1) Acrylic
2) Enamel
3) Lacquer.

Hence, if you use lacquer overcoat, it won't be damaged by an enamel wash. The only thing that'll strip off lacquer is lacquer itself or too much turpentine.

Make sure the gloss coat is completely dry before wash. Then apply enamel wash. When satisfied, you either do your dry brushing or (in my case) apply a flat coat then dry brush. The flat coat over the wash protects it from dry brushing mistakes.

:-) I think I've preferred the acrylic wash & its quite risky for the enamel wash,for me I diluted the acrylic w/ dishwashing soap & a drops of water & its going well after I overcoat it w/ clear gloss. For curiosity reason I only want to try it and recently I just bought a enamel raw umber for enamel wash.
shonen_red
Visit this Community
Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: February 20, 2003
entire network: 5,762 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,610 Posts
Posted: Monday, July 28, 2003 - 11:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Re: enamel wash, I use it more and more exclusively as my wash, rather than oil or acrylic. Essentially, I use used-thinner. Saves on thinner and you recycle it. The "trick" is applying a gloss coat over the base paint before wash. That way, the enamel wash won't hurt the base paint. Make sure, though, that the over-coat is a different 'material', i.e. lacquer. If it is acrylic, chances are the enamel wash strip off the over coat. Same with enamel over-coats. Hence use lacquer overcoats. In terms of strength in ascending order:

1) Acrylic
2) Enamel
3) Lacquer.

Hence, if you use lacquer overcoat, it won't be damaged by an enamel wash. The only thing that'll strip off lacquer is lacquer itself or too much turpentine.

Make sure the gloss coat is completely dry before wash. Then apply enamel wash. When satisfied, you either do your dry brushing or (in my case) apply a flat coat then dry brush. The flat coat over the wash protects it from dry brushing mistakes.

:-) I think I've preferred the acrylic wash & its quite risky for the enamel wash,for me I diluted the acrylic w/ dishwashing soap & a drops of water & its going well after I overcoat it w/ clear gloss. For curiosity reason I only want to try it and recently I just bought a enamel raw umber for enamel wash.



Yah, better use acrylics. Mabaho kasi ang thinner.
GIBeregovoy
Visit this Community
Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: May 31, 2002
entire network: 1,612 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,129 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 02:11 AM UTC
Actually, it depends on one's preferences. Some swear by using oil-based washes. Others, enamels. Others yet acrylics. Thing is ALWAYS CLEAR COAT YOUR MODEL PRIOR TO WASH. This not only helps facilitate the wash, but most important protects the base coat. Using acrylic wash is useless if - IF - the base coat is also acrylic and there is NO clear coat over the base coat. Having a lacquer clear coat will protect the acrylic - or enamel - base coat against enamel washes. One need not be afraid of using enamel washes. Just make sure to clear coat the model PRIOR to a wash. And preferably a gloss coat in order to make the wash flow better. As for the smell, well one should ALWAYS work in a place with good ventilation - except for experts who can withstand the smell of lacquer, acrylic, enamel, liquid cement, melting plastic styrene, RTV, resin, superglue, Future, and what not, all in a small enclosed space devoid of ventilation. hehehehehehe
 _GOTOTOP