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Tools & Supplies: Airbrushes
Talk about airbrushes.
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whoopsydoo
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2010 - 09:28 PM UTC
Okay, the title should attract attention.
My airbrush is an Iwata copy from China, and functions rather well except for some issues caused recently by improper cleaning. I have read, on this forum, that after a thorough clean I should lubricate it. Where would the lubrication points be? The needle, aft of the paint chamber? Similar? Also (playing Cornet) I have some valve oil which is, probably, one of the finest grade oils (outside of Whale Oil- sorry, Moby Dick) available.Is this okay?

And what's a good operating pressure for Lifecolour and Mr Colour acrylics? I've been using about 15psi. Lower, higher?
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 07:51 AM UTC
Hi Shane,
You should only use the purpose made lubricants in your airbrush. I use Iwata Medea Super Lube. It really does make a difference and keeps everything in top performance.
Do not use light machine oil, such as your valve oil. It will cause blooming and cats eyes in the paint.
NEVER use WD-40 or any silicone lubricant in your airbrush. It will destroy the seals, ruin the paint, and you will never, never be able to get it out of the airbrush.

I use Lifecolor and Tamiya acrylics thinned 50/50 and shoot at between 5 - 15 PSI.
If you are seeing any clouds of overspray, your pressure is too high.
whoopsydoo
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 05:19 PM UTC
Thanks Matt. Very helpful.I'll hunt for some of the Iwata lube at my local (ha! 800km away!)hobbyshop. So obviously I've been spraying at too high a pressure which might explain why I have trouble controlling the brush (o'spray). I'll start at 5 or 6psi and work my way up slowly until I find the optimum operating pressure. I'm still hazy about where to apply the lube? Along the needle shaft?

Two more q's? They say a little white spirits should be sprayed through first to clear any crap? Good theory? And Gunze acrylic "flat clear'...not used it yet, but dilute it 50-50 also?
Phil_H
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Two more q's? They say a little white spirits should be sprayed through first to clear any crap? Good theory? And Gunze acrylic "flat clear'...not used it yet, but dilute it 50-50 also?



Hi Shane,

When they say "white spirits", that's the UK equivalent of what we know here in Australia as Turps, or in the US as "mineral spirits".

In Australia, "white spirits" is a synonym for "Stoddard Solvent" which is a dry-cleaning solvent..

If you're shooting regular acrylics, you don't want turps anywhere near your AB, as any residue will cause adhesion problems and "fisheyes" in your paint finish. After flushing with water, you can put a few drops of metho through it to help dry it . When it's all gone through, keep the needle open and keep the air going for about 20-30 seconds and your brush should be clean and dry and ready for the next round of paint.

Gunze acrylic flat clear (H-20) can almost be airbrushed straight from the jar, but I often thin mine 50/50 with metho.

I noticed above that you mentioned "Mr Color" acrylics. Do you mean the "Mr Hobby Color" aqueous acrylics or the actual "Mr Color" "Acrylics" which use a lacquer based reducer? The "Mr Hobby color" Aqueous acrylics have a "H" prefix and the "Mr Color" have either no prefix or a "C" prefix and have an odd "flat paddle" shaped cap on the jar. If indeed you are referring to "Mr Color", you will need lacquer thinner (either the proprietary "Mr Color" thinner or a generic lacquer thinner) to thin your paints - water or alcohol, which can be used with the "Mr Hobby Color" are not compatible with "Mr Color"..
whoopsydoo
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South Australia, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:52 PM UTC
Thanks Phil. Yes, You're quite right. I didn't mean Mr Hobby Color. I meant Misterkit Acrylics. Sheesh, I'm having a lot of "Senior Moments" at the moment.lol.

Well, I'll take your advice on board and keep White Spirits (Digger Brand) away from the airbrush, and also about Gunze matt finish.

I'll get there, hopefully before I'm too far into my dotage!!
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 02:02 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Two more q's? They say a little white spirits should be sprayed through first to clear any crap? Good theory? And Gunze acrylic "flat clear'...not used it yet, but dilute it 50-50 also?



Hi Shane,

When they say "white spirits", that's the UK equivalent of what we know here in Australia as Turps, or in the US as "mineral spirits".

In Australia, "white spirits" is a synonym for "Stoddard Solvent" which is a dry-cleaning solvent..

If you're shooting regular acrylics, you don't want turps anywhere near your AB, as any residue will cause adhesion problems and "fisheyes" in your paint finish. After flushing with water, you can put a few drops of metho through it to help dry it . When it's all gone through, keep the needle open and keep the air going for about 20-30 seconds and your brush should be clean and dry and ready for the next round of paint.

Gunze acrylic flat clear (H-20) can almost be airbrushed straight from the jar, but I often thin mine 50/50 with metho.

I noticed above that you mentioned "Mr Color" acrylics. Do you mean the "Mr Hobby Color" aqueous acrylics or the actual "Mr Color" "Acrylics" which use a lacquer based reducer? The "Mr Hobby color" Aqueous acrylics have a "H" prefix and the "Mr Color" have either no prefix or a "C" prefix and have an odd "flat paddle" shaped cap on the jar. If indeed you are referring to "Mr Color", you will need lacquer thinner (either the proprietary "Mr Color" thinner or a generic lacquer thinner) to thin your paints - water or alcohol, which can be used with the "Mr Hobby Color" are not compatible with "Mr Color"..

why do they have two types of acrylics? talk about complicating manners I purchased mr. color # red and mr color light blue # 323, one has flat cap and other has paddle cap you sure generic laquer will work to thin mr color? mr color thinner is $13.50 for a small container....very expensive.
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 03:57 PM UTC
I have a quick question for my ref. What do you call Turps down under if turps is white spirit down there? I ask as white spirit and turps and two completly differant products here, we thin with white spirit and clean gloss paint off of brushes with turps as it is so harsh.
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 05:04 PM UTC
I am going to try 50/50 with Tamiya acryl maybe with some acryl retardent, that may explain why I have such a grainular finish on my planes,just dries too fast .I flush out my airbrush with hot water right from the faucet and back flush ect at 40 psi, maybe unusual? but works everytime to keep my Paasche millenium running smooth..at leaat with acryl paint.
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 05:08 PM UTC
for my ref. do you think thinners and paint designed for plastic models are best? as maybe automotive or housepaint thinners are too harsh for hobby models?
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 05:11 PM UTC
Mr hobby color, mr color, mrkit acrylic, how are we suposed to decipher all this..internationally, senior moment? me thinks not
Phil_H
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 11:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I have a quick question for my ref. What do you call Turps down under if turps is white spirit down there? I ask as white spirit and turps and two completly differant products here, we thin with white spirit and clean gloss paint off of brushes with turps as it is so harsh.



Hey Darren,

After a little further research, it seems my earlier post may have been in error.

It does indeed appear that White Spirits (in the UK), White Spirits (in Australia) and Mineral Spirits (in the Unites States) are the same thing (namely Stoddard Solvent)

and

Mineral Turpentine (Australia), = "Turpentine Substitute" (eg. Turpenoid in the US) = Mineral Turpentine (UK )


Quoted Text

why do they have two types of acrylics? talk about complicating manners I purchased mr. color # red and mr color light blue # 323, one has flat cap and other has paddle cap you sure generic laquer will work to thin mr color? mr color thinner is $13.50 for a small container....very expensive.



Dave,

I suspect your red is an aqueous acrylic and the blue, according to the number is certainly a lacquer based version.

To be honest, I haven't used Mr Color lacquers yet (they're difficult to come by here in Australia) so it's really just a guess/assumption that generic lacquer thinners should work. Having said that, lacquer thinners can vary in composition between different brands. Personally, given a choice, I would go for the Mr Color thinner because it eliminates any doubt and t is styrene friendly and won't melt your model as generic lacquer thinners may do..

Look at the larger size bottles of Mr Color thinner, as the pricing isn't proportional to the quantity and the large sizes are progressively cheaper It is expensive compared to a generic thinner, but when that expense is spread over a number of models, you're not really spending much more than a dollar or so on thinner per model.

Come on, you've already spent maybe $40.00-$50.00 on a model plus accessories etc, why skimp on paint /thinner and risk a second-rate paint job?


Quoted Text

I am going to try 50/50 with Tamiya acryl maybe with some acryl retardent, that may explain why I have such a grainular finish on my planes,just dries too fast .I flush out my airbrush with hot water right from the faucet and back flush ect at 40 psi, maybe unusual? but works everytime to keep my Paasche millenium running smooth..at leaat with acryl paint.



Your Tamiya thinner will be fine with the aqueous acrylic but it won't mix at all with the Mr Color lacquer. I use Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous acrylics almost exclusively and usually flush/backflush my airbrush with denatured alcohol. I'd suggest not putting tapwater through your airbrush to avoid possible mineral deposits over time. If using water, use distilled or demineralised water.. :

Removed by original poster on 02/01/10 - 19:38:14 (GMT).
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 10:53 AM UTC
I called gunze USA and went out to the local hobby shop and they both agree that mr color is sold in both types of bottles, the mr color display at the hobby shop has both bottle types side by side, I suspect one type of bottle is being phased out? my hobby shop dores not carry mr hobby color...the aqueous version.I bought the mr color thinner.the flat cap bottle looks very much like a tamiya acryl mini bottle.So I am certain that it is the same paint type with different bottles.
Phil_H
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 11:34 AM UTC
Dave,

I just had a look at the GSI Creos/Mr Hobby website and it does appear that the paint is now being repackaged in regular jars and no longer has the "paddle" shaped cap.



I seem to recall hearing last year that the "Mr Aqueous Hobby Color" line was to be withdrawn from sale and replaced by the "Mr Color" line in the US. Now it's in the same type of bottle that the aqueous type used to be in.

Confusing huh?
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 01:34 PM UTC
muy excellante! that pic of mr color jar is like the one I have the other being paddle type top....life was simpler when I used only tamiya acryl, the lavochin LA7 is going to look sweet with the mr color paints, thanks so much
md72
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 10:32 AM UTC
Churchill said that England and America were two nations separated by a common language. Seems like you have the same problem with the Aussies.
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
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Posted: Thursday, February 04, 2010 - 11:36 AM UTC
And I guess Japan?
whoopsydoo
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Posted: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 03:53 PM UTC
One of my questions still remains unanswered? The airbrush lubricant? Where is it applied after cleaning the brush? Needle shaft, aft of the guide?
Grauwolf
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Posted: Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 12:22 AM UTC
Periodically
To ensure smooth main lever action lubricate the needle and
the main lever mechanism regularly.
1. Unscrew the handle
2. Loosen the needle chucking nut
3. Remove the needle.
4. Coat the needle lightly with a high-quality lubricant, like Medea
Super Lube.
5. Wipe the needle with a soft, clean cloth, leaving a light coat of
lube behind.
6. Re-insert the needle gently into the airbrush.
7. Tighten the needle chucking nut.
8. Screw the handle onto the airbrush body.
Drip one drop of lube into the slot directly behind the main lever
and as close to the main lever as possible.
DO NOT over-lube the needle or the main lever mechanism,
since it is possible to transfer excess lube into the nozzle causing
severe paint flow problems.
DO NOT USE ANY LUBRICANT THAT IS NOT DESIGNED FOR
AN AIRBRUSH!
Cheers
Joe
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