Hello everybody. I just wanted to to toss this one out and get some feed-back. It's seems that, all I use for glueing is this stuff( cement/debris mix). The prep-work is a chore but it's something I do any way. By that I mean, I'm always sanding a piece of sprue( shaping, plugging, spacing, filling, etc.,) By matching the mix to the kit, I've had no bonding issues. It's slow in some cases, depending on ratios( cement- debris). Warpage isn't a problem. I try for a consistancy similar to well mix paint for airbrushing. I use it for filling as well. Give it a think! The cement I use is testors brand and with the debris, it grips better. best regards michael.

Hi Michael
I trust that you are talking about a solvent and plastic mix (liquid plastic)?
I keep a small bottle of this mixed (ether / chloroform and plastic), mainly for figure work.
Horses manes, fur lined head-dress etc. Generally, adding liquid plastic to a joint rather than only the solvent simply increases the setting time.
Regards
Garth

Dear Garth, Yeah, I know . Anyway, it's good of you to send a return! The thing is, I am usually doing three(3) or four(4) models at a time and set- up time really isn't a major issue. But I have found that fooling around with different ratios/ viscosities(?),it seems to allows me to adjust the drying time. I use this method, because I have gotten very tired of a clean/ dry surface popping loose after using just solvent ,8-|. best regards, michael.

I use testors liquid glue with a mix of their contor putty. Mainly for filling figure joints but works well enough for vehicels too. A bit thinnerthan the putty but it allows for easier application with lesscrap and file time.

Dear Bob, thanx. I know that there is a lot of shrinkage with just the cement and debris, but I aim for a more solid joint. I mean, with the exess, there is some to remove, but it gives me that second chance to remelt the plastic into the joint/ cavity, etc. Again, thanx for your response