I need some advice on modelling glue. The glue I have been using isn't working very well, need some recommendations.
thanks

the big question is, what gglue are you using now?
please try to be more specific with your questions.
for an awnser, i user Revell contacta liquid glue and couldnt be happier,
a note, dont place glue on an allready pained surface, try and stick the items together first, or scrape the joints clean.

I was using testors non toxic liquid cement. I don't remember whether or not if i painted first, but now i know.
thanks

I use many different "glues" ... depending on what the job is.
I mostly use Tamiya Thin cement for the bulk of the build. Good secure bond and dries pretty quickly.
Humbrol poly something for heavy pieces or when I want a melt .... when you want some plastic to squeeze out and fill out where there is gaps/rough joining fronts.
Model master thin for indy plastic tracks .... slow drying so you can build the entire length and place and form them up to one hour later. I also brush this on areas after sanding and clean up work. Makes a nice smooth surface, disolves plastic dust and easy to see rough areas. ´This trick is great for figures especially.
ethelacyetate quick joints and small pieces. Dries immediatly.
Gator glue and gel superglue for etch ... depending on the pieces to be glued.
White glue/carpenters glue for polystyerene, cardboard, cork, other dio work, etc

Don´t limit yourself to one type ... all glues have the pros and cons.

Hi all.
I use revel and for super glue i use zap.

Oh yeah, the blue tube... Yup, that stuff doesn't work very well at all. If you like using the tube glue, I would recomend the orange tube "Testors Model Cement". That was my weapon of choice for a long time. You can also try Testors Plastic Cement in the bottle, the stuff works great and best of all when you start to run low you can go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a container of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) to refill it. Keep a fan going or a window open for fresh air when using MEK because it does stink. Hope this helps.

The non toxic stuff has an additive that eliminates the odor, making it safe for people with sensitivities/allergies to petroleum, and ruining it for huffers. The additive also reduces the ability of the glue to bond the plastic. The odor is caused by the ingredients that actually melt the plastic parts together, making the bond.

If smell doesn't bother you, any of the above recommended products will work well. I use Tamiya extra thin liquid cement, which works well. Testors makes a black bottle with a needle applicator that is sold at most hobby stores. If you are sensitive to glue, there are limited options. I use Bob Smith industries foam safe odorless CA glue. Most of the local hobby stores that carry it put their own label over the cover. Purple label, black cap. I have heard Gator Glue is safe but haven't tried it.

Not sure what medium you're currently working in, you mentioned resin figures previously?

My list of glues:

Plastic: Tamiya Extra Fine (the one with the brush)
Resin & White Metal: CA glue and Epoxy glue depending on the part
PE: CA glue, but about to try soldering instead

Here is my list of glues I use for different applications .

Testors tube glue and liquid cement .
MicroScale's Micro weld .
Ambroid proweld
Tenax 7-R ( if you can find it OOP now )
Mercury Adhesives Thin and Meduim viscosity super glues .

The glue i mentioned above seems to not work well with resin. I used it on an alpine figure and it doesn't work too good. I thought the non toxic glue would be better instead of the other stuff.

Regluar model glue will not work on resin parts . You need to use super glues or expoxy . gatro grip works very well for this .