I bought my first model with PE parts (Dragon's T34/76 STZ) and was excited about the additional detail they would add. Then I opened the box and saw how small the parts are and read that some of them need to be bent / formed before being attached. I've already started looking into some of the tools out there for manipulating PE parts (e.g. Hold&Fold), but what do folks do to attach them firmly to the model? Also, does a standard coat of primer prepare them adequately for painting?

The PE parts need to be attached with either CA glue (Super glue) or epoxy. Yes, standard primer will cover them just fine. I actually don't prime and have no issues covering them with the topcoat of hull color. Good luck.

I just use regular tools tweezers really,nothing special........




Build on,
Justin

All ya need is a piece of 1" X 3" by 1/4" steel and one or two one-sided razorblades. It's all I ever use. sometimes I just use a chisle blade x-acto and a straight edge. The CA glue I use? Devcon Gel Super glue. (5 pack for $5.00 at the dollar store.)

Keep it simple, keep it easy to replace.

Cuhail

Some tips when working with Photo-etch.

Cut them off with sharp blade with something such as a piece of tile underneath.

Use a small flat plier or a flat tweezer(such as used for nipping facial hairs out) to bend them or hold them when sanding of the stump that it was attached to the sheet with.

A steel ruler and and a razorblade with one end protected is also handy.

Use CA glue, preferably the gel type, white glue or Gators glue.

A good suggestion is to sand the contact surfaces of the etch for better grip.

Cheers

If you have a look in the following link, I show a quick tip for removing PE... nothing new mind you, just something I picked up... the section you'll specifically want is about halfway down the page.

http://sites.google.com/site/rrscalemodels/Home/workbench/tamiya-m8-hmc/step-4

Anneal the brass first.

I use a cigarette lighter- heat it with the flame until the metal changes from shiny brass to a darker brass color with a blue tinge- you can actually watch this occur as you move the flame beneath the parts- not difficult at all.

But once this is done the parts will bend soooooooo much easier!

Glue with 5 min epoxy, superglue or solder them. You can do it and once you have - you'll enjoy it.

Steve

All excellent tips.
And there is always more than one way to skin a cat.
I have "the bug" and a larger "hold and fold" type of folding tool, that I use to bend complicated parts---- those that know me know I'm no PE guru --- I actually use very little. For simple bends etc, I simply use the same old tried and tested steel rule, and single edge razor blade on a sheet of tempered glass for cutting and folding.
Annealing the brass works wonders, but I also don't anneal every part, as some really need their original temper for rigidness, and strength. Another thing to remember is that all PE is not created equal, some are etched on much thinner brass stock, and copper.
To attach, take your pick, again it depends on what the etched part is used for, and how much strength is needed to keep it firmly attached to the kit. I'd recommend ensuring your are doing a PE to plastic or metal bond, not a PE to painted surface, as the painted surface doesn't provide optimum holding power regardless of chosen glue.

I'd also recommend some sort of eye protection, as a flying tiny PE part can easily hit you in the eye.

I have recently tried the CA glue from GW's Warhammer line. Comes in a plastic bottle with a tiny applicator brush and is a liquid. Costs a bit more than the common "gel in tube" types but is IMHO worth the money

Anybody know when they will be coming out with the type that requires no cutting?

Did not mean to hijack the tread.

Also if a Sherman headlight guard a small bit of epoxy putty like Steve uses.

Lots of great help and suggestions above, but the one problem I still have with PE is painting any mesh parts or parts with tiny perforations. How do you paint PE so the holes are not clogged, but also without doing it so lightly that you can still see a brass tint?

Cheers,
Sean

Best done with an Airbrush IMHO.

The one I handpainted I did with "semi-dry" brushing. Using very little paint and coating more than once. Kept a rag handy in case I overdid.

I airbrush light coats letting each coat dry before the next one until even coverage is obtained. Occasionally some holes are clogged but I then drill or pock them out with a drill or needle.

Cheers

Another great glue to use with PE is Gator Glue.

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html

Hello there, first off I would be looking to buy a pair of mag-glasses, I have perfect 2020 vision and therefore don't need glasses, ehhhh wrong, you'll be surprised what these little thing will able you to do, photoetch parts are no doubt a pain in the a*** at the best of time, constantly fed-up with sticking my fingers together rather than the small parts, I was mucking about borded you could say, then used acrylic gel, works like magic drys clear and never sticks fingers, tweezers you require a good long nose pair, try and get use to these as using your fingers is great, but the oil in your skin that you'vejust removed from the PE you have just put back, plus with tweezers you'll get a better square edge, good luck

no cutting, that would be nice

But I wonder how they would collect the 200 loose pieces from each fret from the container with etching fluid and put them in a bag. I think it would not be practical. (I hope someone proves me wrong )

I rather prefer resin without casting plugs

Its already being in production for some sets. The parts are attached to some sticky film instead.

Cheers

great news

I hope the larger PE manufacturers will use this concept!