Hi guys,

Just had a little disaster with my ink wash attempt on a 1/700 scale Tamiya waterline ship. It's a small destroyer called Sakura.

My problem is that the wash seemed to wick AWAY from the seam lines rather than towards it. I cleaned and painted the parts with Tamiya acrylic Kure gray, thenmade a wash using Higgins ink (~1:20 water with some dish soap to thin).

I applied it generously to the details. At first, the effect was good and i could see all the corners and edges being darkened, but once the wash dried the ink seemed to leave the joints and pool into flat areas?! This is totally counter intuitive to me as it has never happened when i washed with diluted acrylics...

Can anyone provide some insight?

Thanks

Your paint, was if a flat? Washes work best on flat colors, not semi gloss or especially gloss. If you can clean it up...or if you have to touch up the paint, hit it with a flat clear that's thinned a little better than usual for a real flat finish, then retry. Seal it off with a clear finish of choice...

My sympathies to you on this set back. AS with Bob above, I have found that washes of any media work best on flat sheen finishes,even in larger scales such as my favorite 1/35. Dulcote is a standby favorite. I also use Krylon Matte Finish successfully for undercoating prep for washes of any media. (please read the ingrediants and test on scrap until you are satisfied!) Other enamal flat clears in rattle can format may appeal to you.
There is a distinct differance of the action 'flow' and 'working' of the wash. It seems to me that people who favor 'flow' (over gloss clear) do not believe in 'working' the wash with hand brush,sponges, torts,and stubs. I find that 'working' the wash with those impliments (on a flat clear) surface result in a more naturally occuring accent and presentation of the subject. It does not matter the slightest as to the media you choose to use. 'Work' it till YOU are happy with the appearance.
Cheers!
Rick

Rick: Your advice is well heeded. I was trying to find a quick and dirty way around this haha... you're right though, just because it's a wash doesn't mean it can't be handled. The problem is size at this point. At 1/700 the parts are tiny... i bought two extra 20/0 brushes, one for dry brushing (a waste... i know) and one for washing... now i will need to brake out some needle and human hair!

To recap my progress. The surface was just bare acrylic and very hydrophobic, I guess that's why the wash wasn't behaving "normally". I am now using a water:future (3:1) mixture to dilute the ink and the result is sticking well to the cracks. Still need to experiment more with the wash to get a good flow, my goal is to have a stock of the black wash and still able to add colours like sienna and yellow to alter the shade.

Cheers.

Goldwyn: Would really like to see your navy addition when it's finished. I'm just drawing a mental blank about anything 1/700 ! Haven't been able to focus that small long enough to enjoy for quite a while.
I've been experimenting with ink washes lately and learning some things. Try Sepia and Walnut inks in various wash strengths and solvents. The Walnut is waterproof and lightfast. Sepia is not permanent and not lightfast. It's also far into the red side of brown. Interesting effects.
Cheers for micromodelers!
Rick