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Cutting Brass Sheet PE

ajkochev

Member Since: June 25, 2008
entire network: 246 Posts
KitMaker Network: 18 Posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 08:13 AM UTC
I'm finding myself more and more needing to use some Anti-Skid tread PE sheets in my modeling but I've been a bit intimidated to try. How does one cut said sheet without bending or warping the cut edges? Also, any advise on creating a template of the area needed off of the plastic kit would also be appreciated.

NormSon

Member Since: December 17, 2006
entire network: 181 Posts
KitMaker Network: 17 Posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 09:33 AM UTC
A couple of suggestions:
1) Look at Archer Fine Transfers, Surface Details. They have tread plate that is applied like any decal, and can be cut with scissors or X-Acto. By far the easiest way to go.
2) If you are going to use brass, it can be cut with very sharp scissors or get some brand new snips at a hardware store or tool dealer. Snips can be bought as left hand, right hand, and straight cut. The left hand and right hand will leave a nice flat edge on one side and deform the other as it cuts. Good snips are not cheap, but worth the price if you are doing fine work.
3) Brass can also be cut using a metal straight edge and scribe, by making numerous cuts along the straight edge. This is not a fast process, but it might be the easiest if you are making the inside cut of a "U". The most important thing with this is be patient and don;t try to rush your way through.
On the brass, you will have to file and/or sand the edges to finish them off and fine tune the fit. Start big and work the size down to fit; you can't put it back after you file it off!
I would suggest using a soda can to practice your techniques before attacking an expensive (and harder) piece of brass.
As for a template; get some poster board, X-acto with straight edge, and some tape to put it back together when you make an error.
BTW, I do most of my modeling on a 8 inch x 8 inch square of 3/8" glass. It won't deform under pressure, easy to clean, always flat and true.
Good luck!
Norm
1) Look at Archer Fine Transfers, Surface Details. They have tread plate that is applied like any decal, and can be cut with scissors or X-Acto. By far the easiest way to go.
2) If you are going to use brass, it can be cut with very sharp scissors or get some brand new snips at a hardware store or tool dealer. Snips can be bought as left hand, right hand, and straight cut. The left hand and right hand will leave a nice flat edge on one side and deform the other as it cuts. Good snips are not cheap, but worth the price if you are doing fine work.
3) Brass can also be cut using a metal straight edge and scribe, by making numerous cuts along the straight edge. This is not a fast process, but it might be the easiest if you are making the inside cut of a "U". The most important thing with this is be patient and don;t try to rush your way through.
On the brass, you will have to file and/or sand the edges to finish them off and fine tune the fit. Start big and work the size down to fit; you can't put it back after you file it off!
I would suggest using a soda can to practice your techniques before attacking an expensive (and harder) piece of brass.
As for a template; get some poster board, X-acto with straight edge, and some tape to put it back together when you make an error.
BTW, I do most of my modeling on a 8 inch x 8 inch square of 3/8" glass. It won't deform under pressure, easy to clean, always flat and true.
Good luck!
Norm

Grumpyoldman


Member Since: October 17, 2003
entire network: 15,338 Posts
KitMaker Network: 5,072 Posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 09:33 AM UTC
You can layout masking tape for your template, trimming it to fit, then lay it on you tread plate. I use plan old scissors to cut out the tread plate, the curling is easily removed by flattening it out on a sheet of glass.
Posted: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 10:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You can layout masking tape for your template, trimming it to fit, then lay it on you tread plate. I use plan old scissors to cut out the tread plate, the curling is easily removed by flattening it out on a sheet of glass.
If you cut the PE in the unannealed (hardened) condition and then anneal before attempting to flatten, you first of all get smaller curls when you cut and then they are easier to take out after you anneal. If you anneal first the sheet is easier to cut but will curl like a sumb*tch and it will be harder to get completely flat.
Just a hint...
Paul

viper29_ca

Member Since: October 18, 2002
entire network: 2,247 Posts
KitMaker Network: 718 Posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 04:37 PM UTC
Pick up a set of Xuron PE Shears. Worth every penny when cutting brass sheet or parts off of a PE Fret!
Just so happens I have a set in stock at the moment!
Just so happens I have a set in stock at the moment!
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