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Putty Problems
TempExp
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Utah, United States
Member Since: March 16, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:43 PM UTC
Hi all,

I've been having some problems applying putty and finally today it got to the point of irritations that I thought I'd ask about it.

I've tried a few different kinds of putty, including Testors and Squadron, but have basically the same results with both. Whenever I try to apply it, it seems to dry and crumble before I even get it on the seam (or whatever). If I put some on a putty knife, or even directly on the seam, before I can spread it and work it in, it seems crumbly.

The other problem I have is that the putty seems to seperate. It will come out of the tube normal for a second, and then I'll get a runny mess of liquid out of the tube.

Any hints or tips on the best way to work with putties? Also, any suggestions on filling the seams on figures where arms, etc. attach?

Thanks for any help.
sphyrna
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:51 PM UTC
Landon,
check over here
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/
click on Tools n' Tips at the top menu, then click on Filling, then go to the article
Filling without Sandpaper

It explains how to use Squadron putty using acetone. I've used the technique in the article, but also used acetone as a 'thinner' for Squadron putty when working on figures, armor, etc.
The stuff stinks- so either use a respirator, or have an open window with a fan nearby.
The acetone evaporates very quickly- but it will keep the putty wet enough to work with for a short time.

Peter
sphyrna
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:52 PM UTC
Woot! I've been promoted!

I no longer 'work for a living' !!


just noticed
steve203
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 02:18 PM UTC
When I use the Testors I apply it into a napkin for a second till it comes out without excess liquid. Then I apply it onto whatever I am filling, keeping th enozzle close to the seam. Let it sit for a minute the pat the putty with my finger. Let it sit some more then work it in with a flat piece of card stock. Its best to leave it raised, let it harden, then sand it flush.
I only have one tube of Testors. When it is gone, I will use it no more. Hope this helps. I actually used the Testors putty to make the zim on a Tiger I.
TempExp
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Utah, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:50 PM UTC
Thanks for the info guys.

Peter -- I checked out the link and it's a good idea... I'll probably try it on my next kit. Only problem is, it seems as if I can't even get the putty to spread straight out of the tube. It just kind of flakes up and crumbles off as I try to spread it out. Maybe this technique will help alleviate that though. Thanks.
didiumus
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 04:56 PM UTC
You can "thin" or "rewet" the testors putty with Testors liquid cement. I personally hate the stuff, but this will help with the crumbling.

For very small gaps, there is nothing like Gunze Sangyo Mr Surfacer 500. You apply it with a paintbrush and this stuff is great! Get some, use it, and you will never go back.

For larger gaps and holes, etc... I use the Tamiya Putty that is grey. It has tiny aluminum particles, is grey in color, and runs circles around either Testors or Squadron.

I would also rather use and have used gap-filling superglue or superglue filled with baking soda over Testors putty. Like I said I hate that stuff. Almost single handedly turned me off of modeling a couple of times. The superglue works well, if you hit it with kicker, it dries very quickly, but it is rock hard and eats up sandpaper and sanding sticks, and you have to be careful with it.

HTH.

Scott
ZoomieE7
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 07:19 PM UTC
Instead of baking soda and CA, mix talcum (baby) powder and CA 50/50, 'til you get the consistency of tooth paste. It sands fairly easily, doesn't shrink of crumble, sets up in 15 min, and doesn't get harder the longer it cures. It'll fill gaps that defeat any other filler.
Grifter
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 11:52 PM UTC
I also much prefer Tamiya putty. But I just used some of my Squadron green putty to simulate dried mud, thinning it with testors cement in the black plastic bottle. It kept the putty soft for 10 minutes or so.
scoccia
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 12:28 AM UTC
Landon,
I use Tamiya or Molak putty. I thin it with acetone and I can apply it with a paintbrush. Once dried I can send it or, dipping a paintbrush in acetone, I can remove the excess of it. Used that way I have full control on the putty and I can do whatever I wish...
Ciao
ModlrMike
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 01:04 AM UTC
Automotive spot glazing compound does the trick for me. It comes n a large tube and is way cheaper than name brand model putties. I apply it in a similar manner to the article at ARC.
TempExp
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Utah, United States
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 03:51 AM UTC
Thanks for the tips. I'll have to try some of those when I start another kit, since at the moment I have about three in the finishing stage.
sphyrna
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 04:44 AM UTC
Oh geez,
totally forgot about Mr. Surfacer. It's made by Gunze.
Mr. Surfacer 500 is a thick liquid that you use as seam filler. It thins with Gunze's Mr. Thinner
Great stuff if you can find it.
TempExp
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Utah, United States
Member Since: March 16, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 01:27 PM UTC
I tried the filler/acetone technique today on a couple of small things and it seemed to help out a lot. Thanks again for the link and the suggestions.
leogunner
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2003 - 01:48 AM UTC
I also use automotive spot putty. I find working it back and forth in the tube helps to get rid of the wet stuff that comes out after the tube has been sitting for a while.
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