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Tools & Supplies: Airbrushes
Talk about airbrushes.
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Airbrush basics
bill_c
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 03:22 PM UTC
There is a hot argument over in Armor about the "new" MIG airbrushes (which apparently are really repackaged SPARMAXes), but it has raised some questions:

1.) What is the PRACTICAL difference between a nozzle 0.25mm and 0.3mm?

2.) Pre-set color flow control: ???? Do I care? Is that good or a cheap way out? These airbrushes are US$35 so presumably they can't have the same features as an Iwata going for $125. Or can they?

3.) Tolerances: the Iwatas claim to be nearly surgical in perfection, can someone explain this more?

I realize "you get what you pay for" and I can't expect a $35 AB to perform like a $125 one, but perhaps someone can set this all out?
slodder
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 03:42 PM UTC
Well, here are my two cents.
Regardless of brand (I have read nothing about the MIG brushes so I couldn't tell you which is which) - the PRACTICAL difference between in .25 and .3 is .05mm. We all know a mm is about the thickness of a US dime. Point "o" 5 of that - well, I'm not seein' it.

I did the triple treat review and Loved the cheapest airbrush in the lot. I use my chapest airbrush in my tool box because it gives me quality and ease of use.

The last surgery I did was with a dremil and I cut a guys head off (only to replace it with an AM resin head).

I really think that more often than not it boils down to cost and availability. If you have a MIG brush, Iwata brush, and a Badger brush you will see which one has the most features for the cheapest price.

Look at it as if you were buying a car. Do you really care if it has customizable ambient lighting? What is customizable ambient lighting?
Does it do the job at a price you are comfortable with.
lskspore
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 04:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Well, here are my two cents.
Regardless of brand (I have read nothing about the MIG brushes so I couldn't tell you which is which) - the PRACTICAL difference between in .25 and .3 is .05mm. We all know a mm is about the thickness of a US dime. Point "o" 5 of that - well, I'm not seein' it.

I did the triple treat review and Loved the cheapest airbrush in the lot. I use my chapest airbrush in my tool box because it gives me quality and ease of use.

The last surgery I did was with a dremil and I cut a guys head off (only to replace it with an AM resin head).

Just my thoughts -
I have a sparmax and Mr Hobby air-brush , the significant difference i can see is the finishing in the sparmax paint cup bottom where the paint and needle goes thru the hole to nozzle.
Finishing is a bit coarse making it slightly difficult to clean away the paint residue. Whereas the other air-brush , the surface is very smooth. Spraying is not a problem but the cleaning is for the sparmax air-brush. I use Gunze laquer paints.




I really think that more often than not it boils down to cost and availability. If you have a MIG brush, Iwata brush, and a Badger brush you will see which one has the most features for the cheapest price.

Look at it as if you were buying a car. Do you really care if it has customizable ambient lighting? What is customizable ambient lighting?
Does it do the job at a price you are comfortable with.

Hisham
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 11:51 PM UTC
I read all the posts yesterday about MIG's AB actually being the Sparmax. But the problem is that I spent the rest of tha day trying to find a store that sells these Sparmax AB's at the prices indicated in the posts.. and that would ship to Egypt for example, but I couldn't. I did, however, find a store that sells the AB-130 airbrushes. So, are those the same as the Sparmax also?

Another thing concerning MIG's AB.. I wouldn't have a problem buying it if the same store sold all the accessories needed for it... and spare parts for it.

So, availability is very important. How easy it is to get it.. and get accessories and spare parts for it.

As for the cheaper AB doing what the more expensive one does.. It's been my experience in life in general that less expensive is not necessarilly worse. Unfortunately, some people buy the more expensive AB simply because "If it's more expensive then it must be better".. and then you look at their paint jobs and you find that they look just like a paint job made with a cheaper AB.

Also, skill lever counts for a lot. Hell, you could give me the most expensive Iwata AB there is and I'll still turn out an average looking paint job. I mean, just because it's expensive doesn't mean that it's going to paint all by itself

After all thet's been said on the subject, I still can't make up my mind which to buy

But I'm leaning towards the AB-130 simply because the store that sells it has all the accessories and spare parts for it.. and ships internationally.

Hisham
Carl_R
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 03:27 AM UTC
Hisham

I don't think the AB-130 and the Sparmax are the same. I'm guessing the AB is made in mainland China while the Sparmax is made in Taiwan (if it makes any difference in quality, there's usually a difference in price). I know for a fact though (since I asked the store) that the AB has rubber seals instead of teflon. This means you're only safe with water based paints, solvent based paints will soon eat the seals. I believe the Sparmax has teflon seals and MIG's variant should have it also. If you want to use different types of paints then this is rather important.

I have a similar one as the AB and have bought spares from that store for it. Also, the nozzle is made from brass, while better airbrushes have stainless steel nozzles. Brass is softer and will wear out quicker.

You may want to have a look at Grex as well, also made in Taiwan. I own one and I'm very happy with it. I also have two Iwatas from the HP+ line and an H&S Evolution. I use the Iwatas and the Grex for my model painting. The Evo collects dust... Someone else might have different preferences.

Some wisdom: you usually get what you pay for. Sometimes you get less, but rarely do you get more. Check for choice of materials since that's usually what differs between cheap and more costly airbrushes, as well as the quality of the chrome plating and probably also the precision in the machining of the parts.

Regards,
Carl
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 05:52 AM UTC
Carl,

As a former "China Hand" who covered business both in China and Taiwan, the "made in Taiwan" phrase can sometimes mean less than it says. Companies on the island routinely manufacture in China and often do little more than put the product in its package or box.

As you suggest, buyers need to find out what's INSIDE the airbrush, too. Teflon seals never made sense to me before now, so I've learned something new.
afv_rob
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 07:14 AM UTC
I would strongly advice picking up the latest issue of AFV modeller magazine. They have a small article featuring 3 'budget airbrushes'(although 2 are actually around the £80.00 mark) the article is a good starting point for anyone interested in this subject. they test a £30 brush and the results look very good.....
alanmac
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 10:10 AM UTC
Hi Rob

Isn't the article you mention in AFV Modeller a re run of this one that appeared here on Armorama ?

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/2365

Alan
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 10:21 AM UTC
Thanks, all especially Scott who did that excellent review. But no has explained "pre-set color flow."
alanmac
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 10:31 AM UTC
Hi

I think from what I can see of the pdf cover in the AFV Modeller download pdf archive the airbrushes are slightly different to Scotts review. Whilst it seems (from the tiny image) I can make out the same three brands as the article the Paasche looks to be a different model. As I say I can't make out exact models, so would be advised by somebody with the magazine which brushes it actually covers.

Alan
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 05:34 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks, all especially Scott who did that excellent review. But no has explained "pre-set color flow."


Bill, that's advertising talk for the needle travel limiting knob at the back.
bill_c
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Posted: Thursday, May 14, 2009 - 03:29 AM UTC
Thanks, Matt, you're my airbrush guru.
Pyromaniac
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Posted: Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 07:00 AM UTC
having read the airbrush triple treat review i bought the Premi-Air G35 and i works brilliantly. with a bit of effort and careful thinning i can get a line of less than 1mm, which is a lot smaller than my modelling needs require. the tiny cup is a bit of a problem but the action seems very 'smooth'
Phil_H
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Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 02:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

having read the airbrush triple treat review i bought the Premi-Air G35 and i works brilliantly. with a bit of effort and careful thinning i can get a line of less than 1mm, which is a lot smaller than my modelling needs require. the tiny cup is a bit of a problem but the action seems very 'smooth'



Your Premi-Air G35 looks very much like the Sparmax SP-35, except it has a cut-away handle.

Very smooth, "linear" action and very controllable. The only thing that I don't like about it is the flat button and long travel of the trigger, which can be cramp-inducing during longer painting sessions.
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 02:42 AM UTC
One thing that has been pointed out to me: looks can be deceiving.

The Chinese-made airbrushes do not all have Teflon seals, so if you're shooting anything but acrylics, that could be a problem.

I have also been told the tolerances of the moving parts are not a tight on these no-brand airbrushes, too, which affects performance.

Food for thought.
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