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Built a model or part from your own materials lately?
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Need Rivets!
Kenaicop
#384
Member Since: August 23, 2005
entire network: 1,426 Posts
KitMaker Network: 78 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 01:33 PM UTC
I need a ton of cheep rivets for the inside of the Academy M3 Lee. Anyone have any idea's?
slodder
Member Since: February 22, 2002
entire network: 11,718 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,584 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 02:07 PM UTC
PUR water filters. Inside them are tons of small balls that can be used for rivets. NO idea if they are the right size for a Lee
Emeritus
Member Since: March 30, 2004
entire network: 2,845 Posts
KitMaker Network: 424 Posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 06:12 AM UTC
Drill a bunch (groups of 5 or 6 is about the ideal) of holes to a block of some dense wood, metal sheet, or something similar. Then heat the end of some left-over sprue with a lighter and when the end softens, press it against the holes. When it has cooled down, just slice off the rivets with knife and glue in place.
It takes a bit of practice to get a feeling of the right amount of heating and the righ amount of pressure to produce rivets of the required length, but when you get the hang of it, you'll turn out quite a bunch of rivets quickly.
It takes a bit of practice to get a feeling of the right amount of heating and the righ amount of pressure to produce rivets of the required length, but when you get the hang of it, you'll turn out quite a bunch of rivets quickly.
GeneralFailure
Member Since: February 15, 2002
entire network: 2,289 Posts
KitMaker Network: 532 Posts
Posted: Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 11:22 AM UTC
A cheap and easy way is to heat and stretch a sprue to the right thickness (up to you how thick you want it), then simply cut of thin slices like it would be a salami. Use a slim sharp knife.
Glue depends on the surface you wish to stick them on. If that surface is a plastic model, do NOT use glue to put them in place, but a more liquid product that glues the plastic (products that are used to clean paint). Most products you don't want to sniff will do the trick. Glue would be too thick, messing up your whole model. To place them on the model, I use a sharp needle (syringe needle is very sharp). You'll need a magnifying glass and/or reading glasses to do this right. If you dip the "rivet" in the liquid before you place it on the model, the liquid will "melt" the sharp edges away, making the rivet look more like a rivet.
Practice on a piece of leftover plastic before you start on your model.
Jan
Glue depends on the surface you wish to stick them on. If that surface is a plastic model, do NOT use glue to put them in place, but a more liquid product that glues the plastic (products that are used to clean paint). Most products you don't want to sniff will do the trick. Glue would be too thick, messing up your whole model. To place them on the model, I use a sharp needle (syringe needle is very sharp). You'll need a magnifying glass and/or reading glasses to do this right. If you dip the "rivet" in the liquid before you place it on the model, the liquid will "melt" the sharp edges away, making the rivet look more like a rivet.
Practice on a piece of leftover plastic before you start on your model.
Jan
18Bravo
Member Since: January 20, 2005
entire network: 7,219 Posts
KitMaker Network: 981 Posts
Posted: Monday, June 22, 2009 - 04:23 PM UTC
There are SO many methods, all of which have their own merit. I choose simpler methods-I purchase round head rivets (conical are also available) from Walthers.com. They are consistently the same size, and easy to line up as each is on its own "stem."
Just drill a #80 hole for each.
An alternate method and most prototypical method I've used in the past is to drill the holes and insert stretched sprue into each hole. Trim each piece so that it protrudes about 1/16 inch. Hold a warm soldering tip near each nub and it will muchroom perfectly into a rivet. You can also use hot match heads (just blown out) but it's a lot more time consuming.
Just drill a #80 hole for each.
An alternate method and most prototypical method I've used in the past is to drill the holes and insert stretched sprue into each hole. Trim each piece so that it protrudes about 1/16 inch. Hold a warm soldering tip near each nub and it will muchroom perfectly into a rivet. You can also use hot match heads (just blown out) but it's a lot more time consuming.
sgtreef
Member Since: March 01, 2002
entire network: 6,043 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,603 Posts
Posted: Monday, June 22, 2009 - 11:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
A cheap and easy way is to heat and stretch a sprue to the right thickness (up to you how thick you want it), then simply cut of thin slices like it would be a salami. Use a slim sharp knife.
Glue depends on the surface you wish to stick them on. If that surface is a plastic model, do NOT use glue to put them in place, but a more liquid product that glues the plastic (products that are used to clean paint). Most products you don't want to sniff will do the trick. Glue would be too thick, messing up your whole model. To place them on the model, I use a sharp needle (syringe needle is very sharp). You'll need a magnifying glass and/or reading glasses to do this right. If you dip the "rivet" in the liquid before you place it on the model, the liquid will "melt" the sharp edges away, making the rivet look more like a rivet.
Practice on a piece of leftover plastic before you start on your model.
Jan
Good to see you back and around Jan oh yes
NormSon
Member Since: December 17, 2006
entire network: 181 Posts
KitMaker Network: 17 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 04:52 AM UTC
Have you looked at the Archer raised detail rivets?
Lots of sizes and patterns, applies like any decal.
Lots of sizes and patterns, applies like any decal.
railbuilderdhd
Member Since: February 23, 2009
entire network: 113 Posts
KitMaker Network: 17 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 05:01 AM UTC
They may not be as cheap as make your own but they are great and not that expensive.
http://www.tichytraingroup.com/
dave
http://www.tichytraingroup.com/
dave
shneezbert
Member Since: October 31, 2005
entire network: 134 Posts
KitMaker Network: 34 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 09:05 AM UTC
Grandt-line has some good quality rivets available at most wells stocked hobby shops or model railroad shops
old-dragon
Member Since: August 30, 2005
entire network: 3,289 Posts
KitMaker Network: 592 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 02:11 PM UTC
Have you tried punching from the backside of the interior with a pick? Try it on a piece of same thickness scrap sheet stock. Use a piece of pine 2x4 under it or swipe a silicon matt from the kitchen. Practice how hard a hit or how deep yields what size on the other side of the sheet...finishing nails work too. When you find out what works to your liking, draw a line for the reverse side where the rivets need to go, mark the spacings, and whack away........try it!
TheUman
Member Since: September 22, 2006
entire network: 67 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 07:50 AM UTC
May be a day late and a dollar short in my reply, but I foound one of the most usdeful things for creating rivets to be on an Eduard photo etched kit for the Tamiya T-55:
On the edge of the Metal sprue are a series of hexagonal holes (all different sizes, but scaled out at 1:35). You heat a sprue, and brfor it cools, push it into the hole. let cool and voila! you can usually get three or four rivets this way. The metal last forever as well.
One of the great thing abou this is you can create the rivets way over size for ease of application, then sand down to appropriate thickness.
On the edge of the Metal sprue are a series of hexagonal holes (all different sizes, but scaled out at 1:35). You heat a sprue, and brfor it cools, push it into the hole. let cool and voila! you can usually get three or four rivets this way. The metal last forever as well.
One of the great thing abou this is you can create the rivets way over size for ease of application, then sand down to appropriate thickness.
Emeritus
Member Since: March 30, 2004
entire network: 2,845 Posts
KitMaker Network: 424 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 08:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
May be a day late and a dollar short in my reply, but I foound one of the most usdeful things for creating rivets to be on an Eduard photo etched kit for the Tamiya T-55:
And not only the T-55, quite many of Eduard's armor PE sets have those rivet holes along the edges of the frets.
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