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 Community Forum: Filipino Modelers Phorum
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Future Floor wax
vproject
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Member Since: November 04, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 02:56 PM UTC
I was wondering, is there a local equivalent to this? I know a lot of modelers use it in sealing their models...
LaTtEX
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 05:24 PM UTC
I use Johnson's Wipe and Shine (white) as substitute. 55 pesos for 50 ml. Look for it at your supermarket
vproject
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 05:42 PM UTC
Really? How do you apply it? What does it do to the model?
Jeepney
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 05:47 PM UTC
Feeling ko lang di binebenta ng Johnson's ang Future dito dahil mukha lang syang tubig di sya parang wax. I have a big bottle of Future sa bahay. Sabi ng gf ko: "Ano 'to? Imported tubig?" I'll give Wipe and Shine a try. My floor needs a coat of wax anyway #:-)
vproject
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 06:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Feeling ko lang di binebenta ng Johnson's ang Future dito dahil mukha lang syang tubig di sya parang wax. I have a big bottle of Future sa bahay. Sabi ng gf ko: "Ano 'to? Imported tubig?" I'll give Wipe and Shine a try. My floor needs a coat of wax anyway #:-)



San mo nabili yung Future?
Jeepney
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 06:09 PM UTC
Nakipag-trade ako sa US. Two Humvee kits for a set of resin wheels and a bottle of Future. Not bad (++)
LaTtEX
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 06:21 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Really? How do you apply it? What does it do to the model?



Same banana as Future: wide brush or airbrush, although I have yet to try it in AB. Dilute in water (preferably distilled) before doing that.
vproject
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 08:25 PM UTC
so what's the effect when it dries, is it glossy or flat etc?
Jeepney
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 08:28 PM UTC
It should be glossy when it dries. Ingat lang sa dust, hair, atbp. Sira ang finish mo kung may dumikit na dumi habang basa ang wax.
vproject
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 09:29 PM UTC
I see so when it's dry then I can start doing weathering work on it or should I do the weathering first then seal the model with wax...
GIBeregovoy
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Posted: Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 12:43 AM UTC
Note that applying Wipe-and-Shine (or Future - take your pick) results to a glossy surface. So if you're building a military vehicle that is not painted in glossy colors in reality, applying a gloss coat (wax or clear spray coats) to the model after weathering would result to an unrealistic finish (unless you're modelling a wet look model). Gloss coats (wax or spray) are used to 1) protect the base coat for decal application and weathering, 2) to help make decals fit onto the model (decals apply better in gloss, smooth finishes, rather than rough, flat finishes - even with solution sets such as MicroSol), and 3) to help in weathering (particularly washes - washes will run more smoothly in smooth finishes and excess can be removed easier over glossy surfaces rather than rough, flat finishes). After the decals have been applied, some (like me) apply a second gloss coat over the decals to hide the untrimmed decal film. Then the wash (preferably something that won't attack the gloss coat - hence I use either enamel or acrylic wash), then the flat coat to dull things up.
crismag
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Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: July 01, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 01:39 PM UTC
john, kung ayaw mo na future mo andito ako ha
vproject
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Posted: Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 02:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Note that applying Wipe-and-Shine (or Future - take your pick) results to a glossy surface. So if you're building a military vehicle that is not painted in glossy colors in reality, applying a gloss coat (wax or clear spray coats) to the model after weathering would result to an unrealistic finish (unless you're modelling a wet look model). Gloss coats (wax or spray) are used to 1) protect the base coat for decal application and weathering, 2) to help make decals fit onto the model (decals apply better in gloss, smooth finishes, rather than rough, flat finishes - even with solution sets such as MicroSol), and 3) to help in weathering (particularly washes - washes will run more smoothly in smooth finishes and excess can be removed easier over glossy surfaces rather than rough, flat finishes). After the decals have been applied, some (like me) apply a second gloss coat over the decals to hide the untrimmed decal film. Then the wash (preferably something that won't attack the gloss coat - hence I use either enamel or acrylic wash), then the flat coat to dull things up.



So it's going to be 2 gloss coats and 1 flat coat for the model...hmmm...
vproject
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Posted: Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 02:07 PM UTC
How long is the drying time of Future/Wipe n Shine befre I can start adding the weathering etc.
Jeepney
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Posted: Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 04:18 PM UTC
At least 12 or 24 hours should be a safe bet.
GIBeregovoy
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Posted: Friday, June 20, 2003 - 03:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

So it's going to be 2 gloss coats and 1 flat coat for the model...hmmm...



Roughly. There's really no hard-and-fast rule on this. I recommend though that whatever you use - gloss, flat, whether spray or wax, etc - don't over do it. Particularly with flat coats. Too much and too close could result in a botched paint job - your model becomes hazy white. Too much and the detail gets 'drowned' and sealed by the coats. It is better to do thin coats one at the time rather than one big coat. I learned this the hard way (along with wrecking a few models here and there).

I have no experience using future nor wipe-n-shine, but with spray gloss and flats, the drying time is around a few hours or so. For the first gloss before decal application, I normally make this dry for 6 hours or more - preferably longer. This is so because 1) you'll be handling the model often as you apply the decals, thus a still "soft" coat will leave fingerprints, 2) the Microsol won't dissolve the clear coat - happens also if there's too much Microsol applied. When decals are done, I spray ASAP a quick gloss - usually just the areas where the decals were applied, and not the entire model. Then let dry for 3 to 6 hours or more. Then after the wash, a very quick flat coat then wait for another few hours or so to dry.
warthog
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: July 29, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 01:22 PM UTC
Hi,

GI is right, there is no hard and fast rule...basta ingat lang sa finish. I also tried Wipe n Shine..(nakita ko nakakalat lang sa bahay), OK naman ang effect. I'll try also pronto... It's good someone raised the issue of Future, I have been researching for the past 3 days to determine if the ingrediemts of Pronto/wipe n shine is the same as Future. The only liquid wax I that has an acrylic polymer is "Mr. Kleer " .

I normally make armor kaya di ko kailangan ng gloss finish, I use gloss only prior to a wash, so that it would flow to the crevices. After the wash I normally spray a top coat of clear flat.

I usually dillute my acrylic paint with alcohol rather than water. If you use alcohol with acrylic it will be more flat than using water.
Jeepney
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Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 01:27 PM UTC
Sa alam ko, Future is called Kleer sa Europe. Nung binasa ko ang label ng Wipe and Shine may floor cleaners daw kasama yun kaya natakot akong i-try baka matunaw ang paint. Buti na lang may nag-experiment na
blitz
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: May 15, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 11:41 AM UTC
during our meeting, a fellow figure painters....was using Future mixed with water (1:1) as a thinner especially for his citadel paints and vallejo paints(arcylics) ... I haven't tried it myself somehow if you guys have a small bottle dropper (pinaka malapit na container yung na-alala ko yung sa beuty parlor na pang tina nang buhok heheheh or parang similar sa container nang singer sewing machine oil...anyway i have to really find out from this guy how it works. pero bottle dropper container works well..
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