Its turning out to be an expensive mistake.... Haven't been building for a couple of years, not really keeping up on putty advancement either. I asked for putty, I got putty, or at least I thought I got putty. It smells like pine tree sap, looks like egg yokes and the florescent lights I have won't cure it... at least it hasn't so far...

I was wondering if it was the UV emissions that cure the stuff. If that is the case shouldn't a UV-bulb for etching copper/brass do the trick??? I guess I'll have to make that UV-proofing box that I was thinking about, I have an UV-bulb for it...

Merry Christmas all!!

I'd try the UV bulb....... the Tamiya link below doesn't seem to be alot of help either.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=87076

The putty cures when exposed to direct sunlight or under fluorescent light. When exposing to fluorescent light, the light should be about 5cm away from the surface. The putty will cure in approx. 1 minute under sunlight, or 2 minutes under fluorescent light (27W).

After the putty has dried, polish the surface using Tamiya Finishing Abrasives. In the example here we started from #180 and finished with #1000.

Tech Tips
After curing, the putty surface may become slightly greasy. To remove, wipe off using a soft cloth moistened with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner.

Well at least according to their page.

More FAQ from their page:
Tamiya Light-Curing Putty FAQ
The followings outline some points and tech-tips on the Light-Curing Putty in Q&A form.

Q : Will the Light-Curing Putty be cured under UV light?
A : No. The putty will be cured when exposed to sunlight or fluorescent light. So it does not require any special lighting device. It is not recommended to use any light device that generates high heat such as an incandescent lamp because it may cause air bubbles in the putty.

Q : Is it possible to apply the Light-Curing Putty thickly?
A : Yes. However, it is best to do this in separate layers. Apply the putty in layers of 2mm thickness, this makes sure the light can penetrate through to the bottom. By applying another 2mm layer of putty after the under layer has dried, you can obtain your desired thickness. Different types of putty can also be applied over the top of a layer of Light-Curing Putty.

Q : Will the Light-Curing Putty cure under standard room lights?
A : The Light-Curing Putty will not cure quickly under an indirect light source such as standard room lights. When working with the putty, avoid direct sunlight and turn off any lights focused on your working area. It is not recommended to cure the putty under room lights alone as the putty may not cure completely.

Q : What's the best way to store the Light-Curing Putty?
A : After once opening the tube, tighten the cap and store the tube in the light shielding bag (included with putty). Then store in a cool shaded area.

Q : Does the Light-Curing Putty affix to the surface securely?
A : Consisting of a smooth paste property, the putty easily affixes to most surfaces. To ensure the putty fixes securely, it is recommended to rough-up the surface in advance using sand paper (#180-#400).

Q : How hard will the Light-Curing Putty become after curing?
A : The putty retains a smooth finish even after completely drying, ensuring easy workability. It will harden slightly softer than usual plastic (polystyrene) parts.

Q : Any other cautions?
A : After the Light-Curing Putty dries, the surface may become slightly greasy. It can be easily removed by wiping off using a soft cloth moistened with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner with, or sanding down using Tamiya Finishing Abrasives.

I finally got it to cure!! I have a florescent work-shop light and I rigged it up roughly 5cm above. Took like 15 minutes, but it worked! Glad that I didn't do it on something bigger/more sensitive!! But it was good learn how to use it, even though I thought I was buying something else...