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liquid cement
Bender222
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United States
Member Since: October 12, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 02:50 PM UTC
everytime i try to use liquid cement i dont acheive the talked about results. I have treid tenax,plastruct,tamiya extra thin, and testors. I have never got that "ooze" and even if i think the aplication was succesful the seam still shows after priming.Whats going on?
c5flies
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Posted: Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 03:33 PM UTC
Hi Josh,

Tenax....a little tough to get used to since it has incredibly fast drying time. The way I use this to get the 'ooze' is to place the parts together, let them open very slightly and let the Tenax flow in and then press them together quickly. (Hope that makes sense!) On longer seams I do small sections at a time.

Tamiya Extra Thin.....with this adhesive I apply to both joins, let it sit for just a little while to soften the plastic, and then give another coat to one surface and press them firmly together.

Testors.....this will act pretty much like the Tamiya, though I feel it's slower drying and don't generally use it in these situations.

Haven't used Plastruct so don't have a clue.

Practice a bit on some spare parts or leftover Magic Tracks if you have some.
ws48
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Posted: Friday, October 17, 2008 - 04:14 AM UTC
I use the active solvent, MEK, that is in brand name liquid cement. I apply it using an insulin syringe for precise control. I leave a minute gap between the parts, apply a drop of solvent then hold the parts together for a few seconds. Works every time.
Bender222
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Posted: Friday, October 17, 2008 - 08:45 AM UTC
Where can i get MEK?
JimF
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Posted: Friday, October 17, 2008 - 09:31 AM UTC
I got a can of MEK at Home Depot. Any good home center/DIY store should have, unless it can't be sold over the counter because of local or state restrictions. Look in the paint department.
Bender222
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Posted: Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 01:46 PM UTC
I got a hasegawa weapons kit and used 4 identical guided bombs to test each cement. I cannot get that ooze . I was under the impression that the ooze is a key part of masking the seams. is it possible that the air is somehow effecting it? I live in upstate south carolina.
Phil_H
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 10:52 PM UTC
Hi Josh,

How are you applying the cement? If you apply the cement to both parts and then press the parts together, you will more than likely not get any "ooze" becaue the cement will have mostly evaporated.

Usually, if you line up the two parts first and then apply the cement to the seam, it will flow down the join by capillary action. If you then squeeze the two pieces together, you should get some oozing action happening. .

Note that this particular method works best with close fitting parts.
Bender222
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Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 04:42 AM UTC
theere is nothing to hol the peices of the hasegawa bomb together so mabe ill try some tape and get back to you.
Plasticbattle
#003
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Donegal, Ireland
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Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 04:44 AM UTC
IMO, Humbrol poly was the ultimate for getting a good ooze to fill joints. Brushing on both parts, wait a minute and then brush again before placement, worked every time.
I havent found it locally for a while, so I buy a tube of humbrol cement and squeeze it into the poly bottle and top up with model master/testers thin cement. This allows me to brush it on using the brush, and still get the ooze.
When building .... I have this bottle, a bottle of modelmaster and a bottle of Tamiya on my desk. When I need a good strong joint I use the poly mix, normal fixing is with tamiya, and after sanding/cleanup, I brush over once with the model master to clean it up. It dries quickly and levels out any marks and dust.
JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Tennessee, United States
Member Since: December 21, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 05:31 PM UTC
Late to this post but I hope it can save someone.

MEK was mentioned above, and discussed in a prior thread

MEK Question

My contribution was:

Hi All, FWIW, please see Paints, Solvents, Glues, Combustibles Hazards

Another's
Quoted Text


From the MSDS:
"Aspiration into lungs can produce severe lung damage and is a medical emergency."
"Higher concentrations may cause central nervous system depression and unconsciousness."
"Chronic exposure may cause central nervous system effects."
"For emergencies or instances where the exposure levels are not known, use a full-facepiece positive-pressure, air-supplied respirator. WARNING: Air purifying respirators do not protect workers in oxygen-deficient atmospheres."
And you guys are spraying this stuff through your airbrushes????!!!!!!!
NO NO NO NO.

JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Tennessee, United States
Member Since: December 21, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 07:27 PM UTC
Here's a bunch of info I have on MEK from discussions years ago:


Quoted Text

Many things, correct and incorrect have been stated on this list about MEK. Lets not go by memory (which may be affected by MEK) and instead go to an authoritative source, a Material Safety Data Sheet. There are various sources available on the web, an easy one is:http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/m4628.htm Relevant portions include: DANGER! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR. VAPOR MAY CAUSE FLASH FIRE. HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF INHALED OR ABSORBED THROUGH SKIN. AFFECTS CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM. CAUSES IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT.
Health Rating: 2 - Moderate
Flammability Rating: 4 - Extreme (Flammable)
Reactivity Rating: 2 - Moderate
Contact Rating: 2 - Moderate
Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES; LAB COAT; VENT HOOD; PROPER GLOVES; CLASS B EXTINGUISHER
Potential Health Effects
Inhalation: Causes irritation to the nose and throat. Concentrations above the TLV may cause headache, dizziness, nausea, shortness of breath, and vomiting. Higher concentrations may cause central nervous system depression and unconsciousness. Skin Contact: Causes irritation to skin. Symptoms include redness, itching, and pain. May be absorbed through the skin with possible systemic effects. Eye Contact: Vapors are irritating to the eyes. Splashes can produce painful irritation and eye damage. Farther down one will find that MEK is not now recognized nor anticipated to be a carcinogen. However, it has shown reproductive teratogenic effects in laboratory animals so keep an eye on you kids.... Bottom line - avoid if possible, protect yourself if you feel you must use it.



I forwarded the above information to an MD, and here is the reply (NOTE: the MD references comments made above, that I edited out years ago) :


Quoted Text

1) Custer's opinion that most teratogens affect only women is completely wrong.
2) Where did he get the statistic that 10 years is the required time to "metabolize anything in the body away"? Does the word mutation mean anything to him?
3) The "eggs" in the ovaries begin as oocytes in the primordial follicles, of which approximately 400,000 are present at birth, i.e, well before puberty. Oocyte maturation is then arrested at the time of birth, until follicular maturation prior to ovulation.
4) The suggestion that males have a protective advantage because they continuously produce sperm is wrong and dangerous. If the latest "crop" of sperm is affected by a teratogen (including alcohol) and that sperm is used to fertilize the egg, the embryo may demonstrate defects related to the damaged sperm. Many defects are due to teratogenic effects on the embryo and fetus and occur after conception, such as those due to thalidomide or radiation. Different teratogens affect the fetus at different stages of development; some that may have devastating effects in the first trimester may have no effect in the third trimester. This is dependent on the particular teratogen, which organ system it affects, how it affects that organ system and when that organ system is undergoing development.
5) What is Custer's definition of small amounts of exposure over time? What does he consider small and how does he measure this? How certain is he that these small amounts of exposure will have no effect and on what evidence does he base this? Fred, If you want detailed accurate information concerning teratogenesis and your own possible risks, get it from a physician who practices reproductive medicine. If you are concerned about possible hereditary conditions, ask the reproductive medicine physician to refer you to a geneticist. This sort of information should be as specific as possible to the individual(s) involved, and detailed exposure, medical and family histories are essential. An opinion from a lay person is dangerous...


tigermothtimoth
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Friday, May 22, 2009 - 08:41 PM UTC
I agree with Plasticbattle.. I use Testors or Tamiya and have found that by brushing it on both surfaces, waiting for it to soften the plastic, then re-applying before mating the parts works. This can be overdone of course, but allowing the cement to soften the plastic is, I believe, the key. If there is a small gap left along a seam Tenax or a similar product can be wicked in and squeezing the parts together for a few seconds generally yields a good bond.. I believe there are many solutions but this usually works for me. Products as potentially hazzardous as MEK are not neccesary!
miteco20
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Member Since: June 21, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, July 11, 2009 - 07:52 AM UTC
James is right! I almost swear by Tenax. If you fit the pieces together then leave even a microscopic gap then push them together you get the "ooze" you are looking for. Be careful though because with Tenax it drys almost instantly and if the glue get a hold of your finger or towel it will spread across that as well and leave an unwanted smudge of glue on the model. No one likes fingerprints on their model.
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