Guys, I know dapat ko tong Ipost sa AC forum pero please rate kung OK naman tong gawa ko. Takot kasi ako baka kung anong sabihin nila eh!

Tamiya's Mig-29A Fulcrum 1/72
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/mig1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/mig2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/mig3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/mig4.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/mig5.jpg

Academy's A10-A Thunderbolt II 1/72
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/thunder1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/thunder2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/thunder3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dendrobium_gp03s/thunder4.jpg

Ok fact's about my Fulcrum:
Build time - 3 days
Main body paint - Testor's Enamel Russian ??? Gray (Airbrushed)
Landing Gears - Testor's Enamel Russian ??? Gray (brush painted)
Wheels - Tamiya's Enamel Black (brush painted)
Mags - Tamiya's Enamel Chrome Silver (brush painted)
Interior - Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Weapons bay - Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Overcoat - Tamiya's Clear (Spray Painted)
Gap Filler - Elmer's Glue

About my Thunderbolt II:
Build time - 1 Month
Main Body Paint - Tamiya's British Green (Spray Painted)
Camouflage colors - Tamiya's Enamel Dessert Yellow (Airbrushed)
Landing Gears - Tamiya's Enamel Chrome Silver (brush painted)
Mags - Tamiya's Enamel Chrome Silver (brush painted)
Jet Engine Rotors - Tamiya's Enamel Chrome Silver (brush painted)
Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Wheels - Tamiya's Enamel Black (Brush Painted)
Weapons bay - Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Missiles - Tamiya's Enamel Dark Grey (brush painted)
Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Tamiya's Enamel Chrome Silver (brush painted)
Tamiya's Enamel White (brush painted)
Academy's Enamel Lemon Yellow (brush painted)
Gattling Cannon on Nose - Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Ladder - Tamiya's Enamel Mettalic Grey (brush painted)
Academy's Enamel Lemon Yellow (brush painted)
Overcoat - Tamiya's Clear (Spray Painted)
Gap Filler - Elmer's Glue

Thanks guys

A bit too dark for my taste, and the A-10 is a bit too glossy, but otherwise fine.

Room for improvement, but it will come in time my friend!

Ba't pag model mo yung pini-picturan mo, maayos yung shots, pero pag nagpapa-picture ako sa'yo, malabo?!

HEHEHEH - Joke lang ha..

Wag kang matakot sa sasabihin ng iba...Opinion lng nila yun... At we were once newbies, at lahat tayo nagsimula sa wala..

Good looking nmn yung Aircraft mo...Kahit na hnde nmn din ako sa Aircraft e sa tingin ko maganda nmn yan...^_^

Gaya nga ng sabi ni Jeep, take pics at least 4 ft away...para maayos....

Pa-picture ulit next time ha.

>^ - ^

Very nicely done SR! You're better in building AC than I do. :-) Truth be told, I haven't build a proper AC model - most are half-builts, with one one complete - and that was just a small 1/144 Academy F-14A of VF-114 Aardvarks.

The glossy surface is due to the Tamiya clear coat which is really a gloss (or semi-gloss) clear coat. Be careful with flat coats SR. I suggest using them when the weather is dry and hot not in this rainy weather we're having now, because it can ruin - really ruin - a well-executed paint job. It's happened to me several times already.

Quoted Text

---

Very nicely done SR! You're better in building AC than I do. :-) Truth be told, I haven't build a proper AC model - most are half-builts, with one one complete - and that was just a small 1/144 Academy F-14A of VF-114 Aardvarks.

The glossy surface is due to the Tamiya clear coat which is really a gloss (or semi-gloss) clear coat. Be careful with flat coats SR. I suggest using them when the weather is dry and hot not in this rainy weather we're having now, because it can ruin - really ruin - a well-executed paint job. It's happened to me several times already.

---

About the AC, it's not as good as you think. Still, in a close up, there are flaws in it. I even put the pave penny upwards which is literaly pointing downwards! Should I not use a gloss overcoat? I use this because Tamiya's clear coat is less expensive than Top Coat. Does it look better with Gloss or semi-gloss or flat overcoat? I wanna know

You use a flat coat out of being accurate: military planes do NOT have a glossy sheen on them because that would reflect sunlight or moonlight and visually reveal their position. It defeats the purpose of the camoflage.

Very nicely done SR! You're better in building AC than I do. :-) Truth be told, I haven't build a proper AC model - most are half-builts, with one one complete - and that was just a small 1/144 Academy F-14A of VF-114 Aardvarks.

The glossy surface is due to the Tamiya clear coat which is really a gloss (or semi-gloss) clear coat. Be careful with flat coats SR. I suggest using them when the weather is dry and hot not in this rainy weather we're having now, because it can ruin - really ruin - a well-executed paint job. It's happened to me several times already.

Suggestion lang mga Pre, I think the weather will not affect much on the clear coat it might be the mixture of your clear & thinner, then let it dry for at least 24-48 hours. After clear coat you can apply a Model Master matt or flat clear it will eliminate the glossiness of your model. Just remove the canopy or clear plastic parts before applying it with 70-30 mixture of paint & thinner.

Quoted Text

---

You use a flat coat out of being accurate: military planes do NOT have a glossy sheen on them because that would reflect sunlight or moonlight and visually reveal their position. It defeats the purpose of the camoflage.

---

But what about new planes? I've seen some plane with shiny surfaces. Flat coat? How bout semi-gloss? which is better?

Quoted Text

---

Suggestion lang mga Pre, I think the weather will not affect much on the clear coat it might be the mixture of your clear & thinner, then let it dry for at least 24-48 hours. After clear coat you can apply a Model Master matt or flat clear it will eliminate the glossiness of your model. Just remove the canopy or clear plastic parts before applying it with 70-30 mixture of paint & thinner.

---

Weather is a factor. More accurately, humidity. The flat clear coat I use comes in spray cans as I couldn't find a flat clear coat in bottles (Tamiya flat base is different - it's used to dull gloss paints you mix it with. Theoretically, you could mix flat base with clear gloss to get a flat clear - but the exact ratio is very difficult to get and you end up with a botched clear coat job - white dots as if your model has gone through a snow blizzard - not good if you're building a desert vehicle).

SR - military aircraft use flat paints. Those in airshows naturally have glossy surface to make 'em look prettier. :-) Civvies like shiny planes. So do SAM and AAA operators. :-) Makes it easier to shoot down those winged thingies. :-)

One solution is to just paint the model in flat, leaving out a gloss coat. But you'll have trouble with the decals unless you have solvaset (MicroSol). And if you do have it, too much of it might damage the underlying paint (has happened to me - ruined a fine decal, too). Hence a gloss coat would 1) makes it easier for the decals to adhere, 2) 'hides' the decal film, and 3) protects the base coat. Another gloss coat over the model with decals already placed would further seal it. And a pass with a flat coat would dull the glossiness making your kit more realistic. Unless your modelling an early (60s, 70s) USN plane, flat coats are needed for depicting an accurate model.

Semi-gloss is still gloss. I understand Gunze's top coats and super clear coats are around P150 to P200 respectively. Available at STC as usual.

How bout using a gloss coat then recoat with flat? I want to hide the decals to make it more realistic

Quoted Text

---

Suggestion lang mga Pre, I think the weather will not affect much on the clear coat it might be the mixture of your clear & thinner, then let it dry for at least 24-48 hours. After clear coat you can apply a Model Master matt or flat clear it will eliminate the glossiness of your model. Just remove the canopy or clear plastic parts before applying it with 70-30 mixture of paint & thinner.

---

Weather is a factor. More accurately, humidity. The flat clear coat I use comes in spray cans as I couldn't find a flat clear coat in bottles (Tamiya flat base is different - it's used to dull gloss paints you mix it with. Theoretically, you could mix flat base with clear gloss to get a flat clear - but the exact ratio is very difficult to get and you end up with a botched clear coat job - white dots as if your model has gone through a snow blizzard - not good if you're building a desert vehicle).

SR - military aircraft use flat paints. Those in airshows naturally have glossy surface to make 'em look prettier. :-) Civvies like shiny planes. So do SAM and AAA operators. :-) Makes it easier to shoot down those winged thingies. :-)

One solution is to just paint the model in flat, leaving out a gloss coat. But you'll have trouble with the decals unless you have solvaset (MicroSol). And if you do have it, too much of it might damage the underlying paint (has happened to me - ruined a fine decal, too). Hence a gloss coat would 1) makes it easier for the decals to adhere, 2) 'hides' the decal film, and 3) protects the base coat. Another gloss coat over the model with decals already placed would further seal it. And a pass with a flat coat would dull the glossiness making your kit more realistic. Unless your modelling an early (60s, 70s) USN plane, flat coats are needed for depicting an accurate model.

Semi-gloss is still gloss. I understand Gunze's top coats and super clear coats are around P150 to P200 respectively. Available at STC as usual.

Quoted Text

---

Quoted Text

---

Suggestion lang mga Pre, I think the weather will not affect much on the clear coat it might be the mixture of your clear & thinner, then let it dry for at least 24-48 hours. After clear coat you can apply a Model Master matt or flat clear it will eliminate the glossiness of your model. Just remove the canopy or clear plastic parts before applying it with 70-30 mixture of paint & thinner.

---

Weather is a factor. More accurately, humidity. The flat clear coat I use comes in spray cans as I couldn't find a flat clear coat in bottles (Tamiya flat base is different - it's used to dull gloss paints you mix it with. Theoretically, you could mix flat base with clear gloss to get a flat clear - but the exact ratio is very difficult to get and you end up with a botched clear coat job - white dots as if your model has gone through a snow blizzard - not good if you're building a desert vehicle).

SR - military aircraft use flat paints. Those in airshows naturally have glossy surface to make 'em look prettier. :-) Civvies like shiny planes. So do SAM and AAA operators. :-) Makes it easier to shoot down those winged thingies. :-)

One solution is to just paint the model in flat, leaving out a gloss coat. But you'll have trouble with the decals unless you have solvaset (MicroSol). And if you do have it, too much of it might damage the underlying paint (has happened to me - ruined a fine decal, too). Hence a gloss coat would 1) makes it easier for the decals to adhere, 2) 'hides' the decal film, and 3) protects the base coat. Another gloss coat over the model with decals already placed would further seal it. And a pass with a flat coat would dull the glossiness making your kit more realistic. Unless your modelling an early (60s, 70s) USN plane, flat coats are needed for depicting an accurate model.

Semi-gloss is still gloss. I understand Gunze's top coats and super clear coats are around P150 to P200 respectively. Available at STC as usual.

---

How bout using a gloss coat then recoat with flat? I want to hide the decals to make it more realistic

Since, Future liquid floor wax is not available in our country, I'm using Tamiya clear acrylic w/ 60% thinner before & after applying the decals, then washed technique, then finally matt or flat clear. :-)