I recently found one of the pre-owned kits I had bought ages ago did not include the PE parts that were supposed to come with it. The kit is out of print and probably 10+ years old. One PE sheet is 4" X 2 1/4" in size and the other is about 7/8" X 3/4". They are regular brass type PE. I had a second kit that still had them intact and sealed. Is it possible to reproduce them using the intact set as a stencil or pattern without damaging or destroying the good set?
If it is possible, is there someone I could contact who would do it? Or would it be so costly I'd be better off waiting to see if a PE set or another partial model came up on eBay? I have looked to see if an aftermarket PE set is sold for the kit but I couldn't find anything. It may well be because of its age and that it's an airplane.
As always, suggestions, advice, and help are appreciated!
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Can PE part sheets be reproduced?
Bratushka
Member Since: May 09, 2008
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Posted: Monday, September 01, 2008 - 05:59 PM UTC
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 12:11 AM UTC
Getting a PE-sheet reproduced probably costs more than getting another kit.
Using it as a stencil requires that there is no half-way etching on one side
like fold lines ore raised/sunken detail. Basically, there shouldn't be any details
on either side that would be invisible when you hold it up against a strong light.
If there is such details it will have to be re-drawn to provide one master for each
side to replicate all the details.
It can be done but unless you can do it yourself or can find someone to do it
more or less for "free" it will most likely cost more than another kit.
Have you checked if there is any aftermarket etch sets for that type of aircraft
in that particular scale ?? What I'm thinking is that there might have been some
other kit for that aircraft which never contained any etch at all and that possibly
some etch-set might have existed for that kit. Long shot but maybe ..............
/ Robin
Using it as a stencil requires that there is no half-way etching on one side
like fold lines ore raised/sunken detail. Basically, there shouldn't be any details
on either side that would be invisible when you hold it up against a strong light.
If there is such details it will have to be re-drawn to provide one master for each
side to replicate all the details.
It can be done but unless you can do it yourself or can find someone to do it
more or less for "free" it will most likely cost more than another kit.
Have you checked if there is any aftermarket etch sets for that type of aircraft
in that particular scale ?? What I'm thinking is that there might have been some
other kit for that aircraft which never contained any etch at all and that possibly
some etch-set might have existed for that kit. Long shot but maybe ..............
/ Robin
Bratushka
Member Since: May 09, 2008
entire network: 1,019 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 02:20 PM UTC
Hi Robin. That's what I thought, I'm basically stuck. I did search for a PE set for the kit before posting but didn't find anything. It is an Eduard kit and since it came with Eduard PE as part of it, I doubt they sold the set separately.
thegirl
Member Since: January 19, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 04:27 PM UTC
Jim which kit ?
Thiazi
Member Since: February 03, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 - 09:54 AM UTC
Not sure if it will help at all but I've found that I can fabricate PE parts from thin metal using various cutting tools. I've found it most successful with the kind of metal used to make sardine can lids (the one where you put in the key and roll off the lid). After I straighten the piece out its rather easy to cut the metal using small tin snips, scissors and even a sharp blade (and then snap the piece along the score line). After a while of practice you can make increasingly more detailed and small parts if you get creative with bending tools (or have one of those PE bend-a-majigs). Although, there will always be parts that will require special construction, I find this method saves a lot of money if you have the time and patience for it.
-Thi
-Thi
Bratushka
Member Since: May 09, 2008
entire network: 1,019 Posts
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Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 08:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Jim which kit ?
Hi Terri. I was hunting for a replacement set for the H-B I mistakenly sold you that turned out to be short the PE set. I have another kit like it so I still have a complete one. I'd like to make that kit complete as well so whether I build one or sell one, everything that's supposed to be there will be. Did you get the other kit yet?
BTW: I ended up contacting Copper State Models and I bought another Gotha G.III and a Pfalz DR.I as well. Now I need to muster the courage to tackle the Gotha. And the guy who runs it, Eric, is quite a character! I bet we talked for an hour and a half. He actually owned a working 1918 Spandau MG which he just sold. There are some great photos of it on the website under the Gallery section. But be warned- there are too many cool WWI airplanes to not want to buy at least one! And good luck narrowing it down!
Bratushka
Member Since: May 09, 2008
entire network: 1,019 Posts
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Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 08:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Not sure if it will help at all but I've found that I can fabricate PE parts from thin metal using various cutting tools. I've found it most successful with the kind of metal used to make sardine can lids (the one where you put in the key and roll off the lid). After I straighten the piece out its rather easy to cut the metal using small tin snips, scissors and even a sharp blade (and then snap the piece along the score line). After a while of practice you can make increasingly more detailed and small parts if you get creative with bending tools (or have one of those PE bend-a-majigs). Although, there will always be parts that will require special construction, I find this method saves a lot of money if you have the time and patience for it.
-Thi
Thanks for the suggestion! But some of these parts are teeny, especially the vent openings in the MG barrel guards, my eyes are not that good for extended fine work sessions, and I doubt I could be that patient for that long.
BROCKUPPERCUT
Member Since: October 29, 2006
entire network: 191 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 11:35 AM UTC
could you just make the parts (after copying it on a scanner) and make resin copies of it ? problably cost more for a full kit (i paid 70 usd) than sending it out to get it copied. 
Bratushka
Member Since: May 09, 2008
entire network: 1,019 Posts
KitMaker Network: 332 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 02:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
could you just make the parts (after copying it on a scanner) and make resin copies of it ? problably cost more for a full kit (i paid 70 usd) than sending it out to get it copied.
hadn't hought of that. i know MicroMark sells a complete set for casting resin. i caan likely get another kit for around 20 to 30 dollars, so cost wise, it may be best to just replace the kit.
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