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 Community Forum: Filipino Modelers Phorum
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crismags' business
crismag
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Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: July 01, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 01:23 PM UTC
hi all! dun sa hindi pa nakakaalam, im planning to pput up a business of supplying aftermarket stuff that are unavailable here sa pinas, like photoetched parts, decals, etc.
not only for armor but also for cars, planes and ships

I need your help guys! please give me an idea of what i should have in stock na madalas nyo hanapin (for armor, ships and planes) kase i have no idea of your desires im a car modeller kasi kaya lahat ng aftermarket about cars alam ko na

im planning to have this business online and by phone kaya email or tawag lang kayo if you want to place orders thanks!
Jeepney
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Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 01:29 PM UTC
My first order:

Plastic replacement tracks for M113. AFV Club ata ang gumawa. May metal tracks akong nakita on HLJ pero abot yata ng 1000 ang presyo
LaTtEX
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 01:34 PM UTC
Ang suggestion ko is for you to have communication with Twobob's Decals. Twobob's is a great source of aftermarket decals, resin parts, etc.

Saka ano pa ba... Testor's Model Master Acrylics! Well stocked ba ang JMN neto?
Jeepney
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 01:36 PM UTC
May konting Testor's paints sa JMN pero not that much. Gusto ko rin sana ng metalizers eh. May nakita akong isang bote dun, finer ang grain ng paint compared to Tamiya pero twice the price din.
GIBeregovoy
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: May 31, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 09:49 PM UTC
From the Filipino Thread at the Site Talk Forum:

Re:San Mig livery and Crismag's business, the livery could be done using blank decal sheets. JMN used to sell decal sheets but now it's out of stock. They always have less than 10 available. Perhaps blank white decal sheets since IIRC the livery is red and white. Hmmm perhaps start also a custom decals business? Cris, since your the artist among us here, maybe we could all invest in an ALPS thermal wax printer. That'd give nice colors for the custom decals. We could make AFP decals for F-5s, OV-10s, and other AFP equipment. Also a 'decal archive' wherein decals will be 'digitized' (scanned) and stored in the hard drive so if anyone loses a decal or has one that's yellowed or destroyed, one can have the hi-res scan of that particular decal sheet printed and viola - replacement decals. I've started doing decal archiving with my own decals here. A 300dpi resolution scan is enough I guess. The only problem I see though is the legality of such archive since they're copyrighted. In my case, I only archive for my purposes, i.e. I don't sell them. I just need a laser printer (or decal sheet that accepts inkjet) or use a colored photocopier to print the image on the decal sheet.

Re:Crismag's proposed business - I also had an idea wherein it's the hobby shop itself that will order for the modeller what he wants and then just a weeeeeee little extra for the use of the service. But then, I like Crismag's idea better. One thing I'd like are decal sheets - both blank and white. Bare Metal foil (very useful for masking - though expensive for that purpose), decal solvent (MicroSol - Microset is too weak IMO), airbrush spare parts perhaps? With regard to PE, maybe ship PE would be an idea for stocking, since ship models just cry out to have PE. Just the common ones at least (e.g. Gold Medal PE for the Tamiya 1/350 line-up of ships), whilst the rest will just be on order business to save on costs. Same with the kits. I had to 'beg' STC to order two Dragon M1A2s and waited close to 5 months for them to arrive. And also FUTURE! Future is SO DAMN HARD TO FIND here because it's unavailable (unless they're in another name or in some store I dunno). And maybe perhaps a tie-up with that family friend's chemical business of selling RTV and resin?
GIBeregovoy
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 09:53 PM UTC

Quoted Text

May konting Testor's paints sa JMN pero not that much. Gusto ko rin sana ng metalizers eh. May nakita akong isang bote dun, finer ang grain ng paint compared to Tamiya pero twice the price din.



Jeep, have you tried Tamiya's acrylics? They're of quite thin consistency. With regard to metal paint in general, I heard that the best way to use 'em is to remove most of the fluid from the bottle or getting the metallic pigment from the bottle. Then use a brush and brush paint. Or put the pigment in a separate bottle, some (not many) of the paint fluid, and lots of thinner. Do several passes, making each layer dry first before adding the next to avoid paint build up. Might work.
vss
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Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 11:08 PM UTC
crismag- sana pwede kits and conversions ng hobbyfan, modelvalley, verlinden atbp..! gusto ko nga din mag open ng model shop kaso walang partner and not enough money pa to open a shop.. nag hahanap ka ba ng partner? hehe :-)
shonen_red
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, May 15, 2003 - 02:12 AM UTC
My list:

A hell of modern aircrafts in 1/48 and 1/72 scales
A hell of Tamiya bottle paints
A hell of Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color spray cans
Diorama trees, miniature items and the like
Malapit sa Las Piņas yung shop

Sana yung mga bottle paints nyo di madaling magdry up!
Jeepney
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Posted: Thursday, May 15, 2003 - 12:35 PM UTC
Try ko yon GI. Problema lang talaga sa Tamiya metallics ay kitang-kita ang grains! For example: Gunmetal. Pag-paint mo nito may mga flecks na parang glitters after the paint dries up. I had more luck with Metallic Gray pero kelangan i-mix talaga ng maayos para di magseparate ang metal at gray.
LaTtEX
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Posted: Thursday, May 15, 2003 - 02:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Try ko yon GI. Problema lang talaga sa Tamiya metallics ay kitang-kita ang grains! For example: Gunmetal. Pag-paint mo nito may mga flecks na parang glitters after the paint dries up. I had more luck with Metallic Gray pero kelangan i-mix talaga ng maayos para di magseparate ang metal at gray.



I solution I had for this fleck problem with gunmetal is to mix it with just a teenyweenybit of Chrome Silver.

Oo nga pala, I was able to create a very good "steel" color by mixing 4 parts Testor's Chrome Silver to 1 part Tamiya Gun Metal. Pero that was 6 years ago :-)

Ang tagal ko nang dinelay itong hobby na ito.
GIBeregovoy
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Posted: Thursday, May 15, 2003 - 11:06 PM UTC
I miss Testors Chrome Silver enamel. Now that was mighty fine paint!

Jeep, you using a brush to paint the guns, jet exhaust, etc? Another possible solution is airbrushing gunmetal on the subject, and then when that's dry, rub lead pencil. Afterwhich 'polish' a bit to remove the bits. Weathered steel. Use different kinds of pencils - soft ones will give a darker look, while harder ones will yield a lighter shade (Mongol 3 is nice I think).
shonen_red
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Member Since: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Friday, May 16, 2003 - 03:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I miss Testors Chrome Silver enamel. Now that was mighty fine paint!

Jeep, you using a brush to paint the guns, jet exhaust, etc? Another possible solution is airbrushing gunmetal on the subject, and then when that's dry, rub lead pencil. Afterwhich 'polish' a bit to remove the bits. Weathered steel. Use different kinds of pencils - soft ones will give a darker look, while harder ones will yield a lighter shade (Mongol 3 is nice I think).



Try Tamiya's Chrome Silver. It is really good. This is the only paint that I've used a lot.
LaTtEX
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Posted: Friday, May 16, 2003 - 02:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I miss Testors Chrome Silver enamel. Now that was mighty fine paint!

Jeep, you using a brush to paint the guns, jet exhaust, etc? Another possible solution is airbrushing gunmetal on the subject, and then when that's dry, rub lead pencil. Afterwhich 'polish' a bit to remove the bits. Weathered steel. Use different kinds of pencils - soft ones will give a darker look, while harder ones will yield a lighter shade (Mongol 3 is nice I think).



Try Tamiya's Chrome Silver. It is really good. This is the only paint that I've used a lot.



Tamiya's Chrome Silver is good, I agree, but it is not as thin as Testor's. Dun ako bilib... Testor's CSilver is so thin yet when it dries it's so even... it doesn't run.
shonen_red
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Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2003 - 03:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I miss Testors Chrome Silver enamel. Now that was mighty fine paint!

Jeep, you using a brush to paint the guns, jet exhaust, etc? Another possible solution is airbrushing gunmetal on the subject, and then when that's dry, rub lead pencil. Afterwhich 'polish' a bit to remove the bits. Weathered steel. Use different kinds of pencils - soft ones will give a darker look, while harder ones will yield a lighter shade (Mongol 3 is nice I think).



Try Tamiya's Chrome Silver. It is really good. This is the only paint that I've used a lot.



Tamiya's Chrome Silver is good, I agree, but it is not as thin as Testor's. Dun ako bilib... Testor's CSilver is so thin yet when it dries it's so even... it doesn't run.



Nah, I found Tamiya's C Silver coats evenly. But anyway I love testor paints too the best!
rysorne
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Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: April 28, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 12:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

hi all! dun sa hindi pa nakakaalam, im planning to pput up a business of supplying aftermarket stuff that are unavailable here sa pinas, like photoetched parts, decals, etc.
not only for armor but also for cars, planes and ships

I need your help guys! please give me an idea of what i should have in stock na madalas nyo hanapin (for armor, ships and planes) kase i have no idea of your desires im a car modeller kasi kaya lahat ng aftermarket about cars alam ko na

im planning to have this business online and by phone kaya email or tawag lang kayo if you want to place orders thanks!

Crismag,its a good idea,much better if you can able to get a Model Master paints in different colors, its so hard to find a exact color w/FS numbers, in hobby stores in Manila its so hard to find a paint and I dont want to mixed a paint just to get a right color. And if can able to get a decals for Phil. Air Force & resin for cockfit & ejection seat.
lonewolf
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 02:21 AM UTC
Mabuhay! at welcome, "rysorne"...
GIBeregovoy
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: May 31, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 03:12 AM UTC
Greetings rysorne!

Re:FS numbers, IIRC, some Gunze Mr. Color paints have an FS reference number (like their 303 green IIRC, which is FS30something-something for the A-10).

Personally though, I stick to the 'if it looks right, then it is right' rule for my subjects. Less frustrating. :-)
LaTtEX
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 02:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Greetings rysorne!

Re:FS numbers, IIRC, some Gunze Mr. Color paints have an FS reference number (like their 303 green IIRC, which is FS30something-something for the A-10).

Personally though, I stick to the 'if it looks right, then it is right' rule for my subjects. Less frustrating. :-)



I agree. It also eliminates the "scaling color" issue.

In any case, no one can actually make colors turn out right, because under different colors of light (incandescent, flourescent, flash photography) the colors aren't right anyway.
GIBeregovoy
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Posted: Saturday, May 24, 2003 - 11:01 AM UTC
Interesting info on the ALPS printer: http://63.99.108.76/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000431.html
I guess we either wait for a better printer or invest in a color copier (ouch). Or just have our decals made by a decal company. Sigh...
rysorne
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Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2003 - 12:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Greetings rysorne!

Re:FS numbers, IIRC, some Gunze Mr. Color paints have an FS reference number (like their 303 green IIRC, which is FS30something-something for the A-10).

Personally though, I stick to the 'if it looks right, then it is right' rule for my subjects. Less frustrating. :-)

A-10 its Gunship gray, Olive drab and Medium green,I forgot the FS numbers but it is the right colors & I think that is a Lizard scheme for A-10 & for Gray scheme its only Dark ghost gray & Light ghost gray w/ 2 variations.Happy modelling
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