I am getting ready to use dry transfers for the first time. My question is this:
Can you apply a clear coat (gloss or flat) over them like you can regular decals without affecting their appearance?
Is there anything special I need to be aware of in the process of applying them?
Thanks for your time and assistance.
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Question regarding use of dry transfers
sgtsauer
#065
Member Since: March 30, 2002
entire network: 2,605 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 02:58 AM UTC
AJLaFleche
Member Since: May 05, 2002
entire network: 8,074 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 03:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Can you apply a clear coat (gloss or flat) over them like you can regular decals without affecting their appearance?
Yes.
Quoted Text
Is there anything special I need to be aware of in the process of applying them?
Make sure you place them excatly where you want them before you start burnishing them. Unlike traditional decals, you can't asjust the position. Make sure you have the complete design fully burnished before lifting the carrier. Using a soft lead pencil helps since you'll be able to see how much of the design has been burnished. There's no need to glosscoat before using them since there's no carrier film to silver.
HawkeyeV
Member Since: September 20, 2006
entire network: 319 Posts
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Posted: Friday, May 02, 2008 - 05:07 AM UTC
You can seal them afterwards, just apply thin light coats. One thing about dry transfers, they apply better to flat painted surfaces which eliminates the need to gloss first.
I also find that if they are warm (body temp) they adhere better. The warmth activates the stickiness so they stay in place. I cut them out just like decals, leaving enough carrier to hold onto and keep the transfer in place while I burnish it down.
Keep your fingers of the backside of the transfer! Oils from your hands will reduce their ability to adhere to the surface.
Dry transfers are also easy to weather and chip like real painted on markings. If I had my choice I'd use them for 90% of my projects. If you position one wrong, a little masking tape will lift it off cleanly.
A warm transfer is easier to apply. I hold it against my chest or place it above a fluorescent lamp for a few minutes to soften before application. The lamp that hangs over my bench generates just enough heat to work well for such a purpose as well as a drying area for assemblies.
I also find that if they are warm (body temp) they adhere better. The warmth activates the stickiness so they stay in place. I cut them out just like decals, leaving enough carrier to hold onto and keep the transfer in place while I burnish it down.
Keep your fingers of the backside of the transfer! Oils from your hands will reduce their ability to adhere to the surface.
Dry transfers are also easy to weather and chip like real painted on markings. If I had my choice I'd use them for 90% of my projects. If you position one wrong, a little masking tape will lift it off cleanly.
A warm transfer is easier to apply. I hold it against my chest or place it above a fluorescent lamp for a few minutes to soften before application. The lamp that hangs over my bench generates just enough heat to work well for such a purpose as well as a drying area for assemblies.
TacFireGuru
Member Since: December 25, 2004
entire network: 3,770 Posts
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Posted: Friday, May 02, 2008 - 02:19 PM UTC
AJ, Gerald....
As an aside to this topic, I hope you can answer this: How does one go about applying a dry transfer to a Zimmerit'd surface? I have a feeling I'm going to have to go "AM" for decaling of a couple of tanks, and as I hear, dry transfers can be the "schizz-nit." I remember the "olden days" of using dry transfers (1985)...but I always used them on flat surfaces. So, what does one do regarding "uneven" surfaces?
Thanks in advance!
Mike
As an aside to this topic, I hope you can answer this: How does one go about applying a dry transfer to a Zimmerit'd surface? I have a feeling I'm going to have to go "AM" for decaling of a couple of tanks, and as I hear, dry transfers can be the "schizz-nit." I remember the "olden days" of using dry transfers (1985)...but I always used them on flat surfaces. So, what does one do regarding "uneven" surfaces?
Thanks in advance!
Mike
KoSprueOne
Member Since: March 05, 2004
entire network: 4,011 Posts
KitMaker Network: 879 Posts
Posted: Friday, May 02, 2008 - 04:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You can seal them afterwards, just apply thin light coats. One thing about dry transfers, they apply better to flat painted surfaces which eliminates the need to gloss first.
I also find that if they are warm (body temp) they adhere better. The warmth activates the stickiness so they stay in place. I cut them out just like decals, leaving enough carrier to hold onto and keep the transfer in place while I burnish it down.
Keep your fingers of the backside of the transfer! Oils from your hands will reduce their ability to adhere to the surface.
Dry transfers are also easy to weather and chip like real painted on markings. If I had my choice I'd use them for 90% of my projects. If you position one wrong, a little masking tape will lift it off cleanly.
A warm transfer is easier to apply. I hold it against my chest or place it above a fluorescent lamp for a few minutes to soften before application. The lamp that hangs over my bench generates just enough heat to work well for such a purpose as well as a drying area for assemblies.
Well put, HawkeyeV. Is this a special room, or is this the current temp at your house?!!!!?
sgtreef
Member Since: March 01, 2002
entire network: 6,043 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,603 Posts
Posted: Monday, May 05, 2008 - 11:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextYou can seal them afterwards, just apply thin light coats. One thing about dry transfers, they apply better to flat painted surfaces which eliminates the need to gloss first.
I also find that if they are warm (body temp) they adhere better. The warmth activates the stickiness so they stay in place. I cut them out just like decals, leaving enough carrier to hold onto and keep the transfer in place while I burnish it down.
Keep your fingers of the backside of the transfer! Oils from your hands will reduce their ability to adhere to the surface.
Dry transfers are also easy to weather and chip like real painted on markings. If I had my choice I'd use them for 90% of my projects. If you position one wrong, a little masking tape will lift it off cleanly.
A warm transfer is easier to apply. I hold it against my chest or place it above a fluorescent lamp for a few minutes to soften before application. The lamp that hangs over my bench generates just enough heat to work well for such a purpose as well as a drying area for assemblies.
Well put, HawkeyeV. Is this a special room, or is this the current temp at your house?!!!!?
Hey Ko SprueOne.
Hope all is well there with the weather and such.
I guess you made out okay.
Mike to get a heads up on that answer Archer makes sets to go over Zim
HawkeyeV
Member Since: September 20, 2006
entire network: 319 Posts
KitMaker Network: 184 Posts
Posted: Friday, May 09, 2008 - 06:24 AM UTC
No that is the temp of the top of the lamp over my bench. Perfect area for warming or drying.
Applying dry transfers over Zemm what? Just kidding. What you'll have to do is get the transfer on as best you can. Then use your finger or thumb to press directly onto the transfer to set it in place. The warmth from your finger will help it "melt" into place. You may also have to press gently with a dull pointed toothpick to tuck parts of the transfer into the texture of the Zimmert.
Unless your armor is representing a factory fresh unit the markings will have faded, chipped or been rubbed in combat.
Applying dry transfers over Zemm what? Just kidding. What you'll have to do is get the transfer on as best you can. Then use your finger or thumb to press directly onto the transfer to set it in place. The warmth from your finger will help it "melt" into place. You may also have to press gently with a dull pointed toothpick to tuck parts of the transfer into the texture of the Zimmert.
Unless your armor is representing a factory fresh unit the markings will have faded, chipped or been rubbed in combat.
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