I thought I'd try my hand at a bit of simple scratch building, nothing too dificult just a few ammo boxes in 1:35. So I got some plasticard, a steel ruler and a scalpel. But can I cut it straight - no chance. Either the card moves slightly so that I get a slight curve, or the cut is not square, or the edges are not clean. What am I doing wrong?

Does anyone have any tips on how to get clean, accurate cuts?

If possible I'd like to avoid having to buy a specialised cutter like the Chopper.

Don't actually try to cut the plastic. Score it with a couple of light passes and then snap it. It helps me because if I apply too much pressure trying to cut it invariably my blade wavers.
And, remember that the first pass is the most important one. Once you have the first light score line the next three or four should be easy.
HTH,
Shaun

avoid the Chopper. A cheaply made piece of junk ...I bought one and it rarely leaves a straight,clean cut. I always have to "true" the piece that I cut. A waste of money IMO.

Olfa p-Cutter - a few light passes then snap, just like doing a vacform!!!

HTH

Andy

Like the others have said, lightly score along your ruler (Steel I hope) and then snap. For square cuts I picked up a small Tri-Square at a local discount tool shop. It is about 4 X 2 In. Ideal for marking and cutting styrene. I will also clamp the ruler and styrene together to ensure that neither slip while scoring.
The Square has really helped with square cuts. That and measure twice cut once.

Hope this helps

Doug

What you need is a small mitre box and fine-tooth saw. See www.modelexpo-online.com, and enter Item #: EX55666

To cut the larger plastic stock down quickly, you can do your rough cuts with a coping saw, then do the smaller precision square cuts in the mitre box.

Nice Tip...Thanks guys, thats good to know info.

Thanks very much for all the tips, I'm now getting the hang of it and making progress. Thanks again.

Hi guys,

What about this Balsa cutter?


Would this do the trick?

John

It'll work for making narrower strips. But then It's easier to stock a variety of styrene shapes and sizes (atleast I find it easier)

Actually, the Chopper is a very good tool for replicating repetitive cuts of the same size. It's not really designed for larger pieces of styrene. It will certainly work well for cutting the .010 one would need for ammo boxes. However, you are correct in that it does not cut pieces squarely - top to bottom. The reason for this is the way the razor blades are designed, with the thick spine along the back edge. This causes the blade to cant to one side so that it slices at an angle on the way down. It still makes a perpendicular cut on the flat working surface provided you don't force the cutting arm sideways on the way down.
The way to remedy the angled cuts is very simple - I've done it myself. All you need are two flat washers installed betwen the blade and the cutting arm. This will keep the blade perpendicular. Try it and see if it doesn't improve your cuts.
As for square cuts on larger styrene, it's already been mentioned, light strokes at first, then snap the styrene. To keep things square I use a cutting mat. It has a a grid printed on it. All you do is line up your piece on the vertical line, and place your mark where you want to cut on a horizontal line, then place your steel rule there. It works very well.
One thing that apparently a lot of people forget id to sane the piece when you're done as scoring the styrene leaves a small ridge. I've seen some nice scratchbuilding that could have been better by simply sanding those small ridges off.

You are certaqinly not alone! Thanks for asking the question. I have leaarned a lot from the responses.

Semper Fi,
Dave

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83113

The Dupli Cutter from Micro Mark is the best tool for this job. I have been using it for years and would recommend it to any one.

Seconded !

I use the Fiskars paper trimmer that my wife had left over from her scrapbooking hobby.