I am currently working on a M1046 HMMWV. For the first time, I am trying the decal application technique where you do the following steps:

1. gloss/future coat
2. solvaset
3. decal application
4. flat coat

After using this process, I'm still seeing a little bit of "silver" around the edges of the decal.

Is it possible that I did not carry enough of the decal "glue" onto the model? Or, should the decal setting solution take care of the adhesion?

Thanks for any words of advice.

I don't think there is anything wrong with what you did,but here is my method, which is basically yours, with a few added steps:

1. gloss/future coat
2. MicroSet
3. decal application
4. MicroSol (leave room for a day, and let it really set)
5. gloss/future coat (again, leave for a good amt of time to let it set)
6. flat/dull coat.

I find the second gloss coat really seals the decals, especially if you gave it a good first coat as the base. Then, the dull coat brings everything back, and you are ready for weathering. Again, pretty much what you did, but just a few extra steps.


Mike

I forgot the second gloss coat. Dang. That may be the problem.

You can also try a second coat of solvaset if the first one doesn't look like it's done the trick. Before appling the 1st coat of solvaset I use a soft sponge, (makeup sponges work well) to seat the decal down onto the surface.

-Bruce

Hi Brett,

I do not use the second gloss coat, but it sounds like it works well. Without knowing what brand of decals, I would just suggest that the decal did not settle snuggly and more Solvaset should take care of it.

Instead of a sponge, I use a dedicated paint pipette to apply decal solution. Solvaset really softens--melts!-- decals so NEVER tough a decal until it is completely dry. But if you need to, the pipette puts solution on without direct contact. I even draw some up, then eject it, and then make "spit bubbles" of solution--they can be 'painted' upon wet decals and I have never had a boo-boo doing that.

Here is another question on this topic, what do you guys use to wash away the excess decal setting solution after the decals have dried?

Warren--I use the corner of a paper towel, placed next to (but not on!) the decal to wick away the extra setting solution. I'm pretty careful not to touch the decal directly.

To avoid silvering, I've also taken to applying my decals with future as the "setting solution." Basically, this works best for relatively flat areas without a lot of raised, complex detail. The process entails:

1. gloss/future coat
2. dab future on the are where the decal will be placed
3. apply decal immediately
4. glos/future coat
5. flat coat

This process is guaranteed to eliminate silvering, but it does not work when the decals needs to conform to complex detail, since the future does not soften the decals.

Here is one thing I do in addition to all of these.

I get a new #11 blade and a sharp ruler and a cutting mat. I do a rough cut of the decal with scissors and get just the one decal I'm placing. I then carefully remove as much excess outside edge 'flash'/clear decal paper as possible. I don't try to cut through the backing paper, really just through the decal itself. When I pull the decal out of the water I use a big wide decal tweezer. With the decal on paper on the tweezer I use a dull toothpick and gently nudge the excess 'flash' off the paper. Then I apply the decal.
For big solid or full color decals this eliminates any material that can be silvered. For things like the US star in the white circle I will even cut out the empty spaces.
For lettering (on planes mostly) I will remove as much as I feel safe with while keeping the integrity of the decal. Like on a USA decal I will cut out a nice size chunk of in the open end of the U and the funny little block space at the bottom of the A.
It does take some time a bit of care, but it's worth it in the end (to me anyway).