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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
Ready Aim, Shoot. Photo thread!!
CaptainJack
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 03:04 AM UTC
Well Screaming Eagle asked about photos You guys are more than welcome to contribuute, but I think I'll go to the features section as this might be too long for here.

Jack at work!
CaptainJack
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 03:31 AM UTC
Duh well that didn't work so here goes! I always used to get the hebie jeebies when I read articlaes trying to explain this to beginners. They run off with technosprach, and tend to lose the reader. I'll try to make this as simple and painless as possible! First off use the best camera you can afford. An SLR (single lense reflex) is your basic 35mm type such as Nikon, Minolta et al. Try and use the lowest speed file possible. This is measured in either DIN, or more commonly, ASA. A 100 ASA is ideal for clear outdoor shots. The lower the speed the more silver nitrate, and hence less grain in your photos. This is especially true when looking towards enlargements. When shooting outdoors, use a piece of white card or board to reflect the ambiant sunlight onto the subject you are shooting. F/stops are what creates your depth of field. Depth of field is the clarity you experience in the background. For example: If I use a diaphragm opening of say F22, This is very small . thus the higher the number Fstop, the smaller the apeture (opening) less light penetrates creating a sharper all-around picture. If you want to fuzz the picture, and blur the background, open up your F/stop to about 5.6 The higher you go the fuzzier the background image. Remeber when you open up (use a lower F/stop) your photo opening becomes correspondingly quicker i.e. 1/500th of a second! The opposite is true when you close down your aperture. On a cloudy day you might find the camera speed reading as low as 1 second. This is not a problem if you use the auto button. However if you go too low, then the photo becomes progressively darker. This can result in the dreaded over-exposure syndrome. The solution is either falsh photography at 1/60th of a second, or indoor shooting. Alternatively you could wait for a sunny day!! The ideal situation is F22 or higher with a 100 asa film. Be careful of what is called "carried shadows". This happens early in the morning and late in the evening. The shadows of the model lengthen with the angle of the sun. To avoid this check your angle, pull the model further away from the back drop, and use your white filler card. A tripod is excellent as this helps to avoid "camera shake". Use either your timer button (used to take a picture of yourself)or get ahold of a hand held release cable. Be careful of your foucusing. Indoor photography presents it's own special problems. First of be sure of your light sources. You will need about three, 60watt, clamp on lamps, angled from either side and one from below for "warm light". The film you need THEY NEVER TELL YOU THIS!!! Is Tungsten T64. This is a special blue filter film, which compensates for the spectral over-ride of normal and flourescent lighting. You can also use a flash as a "fill" but be sure not to aim this directly at your model. angle your flash upwards if possible. Use the same proceedures as per outdor photography. What happens if you use a higher speed film? The quality of the photos is reduced, but the level of required light is less. Now I know photo equipment is expensive but you can find some good second hand deals.

Well I'm sorry to have been long winded. If you have any other questions just ring.

Jack at your service! :-)
m1garand
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 03:35 AM UTC
I use an Ott light which gives me great light. And I use a tabletop tripod to eliminate any shake.
CaptainJack
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 03:54 AM UTC
What is an OTT light? Sounds like something from Star Trek!


Jack be befuddled
m1garand
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 03:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

What is an OTT light? Sounds like something from Star Trek!


Jack be befuddled



Ott lights are very close to natural light. Really brings out the color and detail.

http://www.ott-lite.com/
CaptainJack
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 04:03 AM UTC
Hmmmmmmmm, Ah YES!! Plant friendly UV type lights

Jack.

P.S. Do they have a generic name?
m1garand
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 04:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

P.S. Do they have a generic name?



Uhhhhhhhhhh, best man-made light I've found?
CaptainJack
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 05:50 AM UTC
Here's another tip. When shooting with backgrounds try to use a neutral "non-aggressive" toned back drop. Depending of course upon the subject the following seem to be pleasing to the eye:

Light Navy blue (roger Lt. Dewberry sir!)
Medium Green
Ochre to light brown.
light olive
pale to pastel blue is a good general usage colour

Avoid! orange, red, light green (booger green ha-ha)purple/violet rose, canary yellow etc




If you find a "degraded backdrop so much the better! This starts as a solid colur and fades away to pure white. This is what you often see in show reports!
Jack of all trades
TreadHead
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 06:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hmmmmmmmm, Ah YES!! Plant friendly UV type lights

Jack.

P.S. Do they have a generic name?



Yes Jack, you are correct. Also, a cheaper alternative to the 'Ott-Lite' is the light used for raising reptiles. That's right. Check at your local pet shop before you spend the pesos...

Tread
CaptainJack
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Posted: Friday, April 12, 2002 - 06:23 AM UTC
ARRGGHH No crawly critters in my sack tread!! Thanks for the hint though, I'll check it out. Mind you I'll most likely be armed with bloused deep waders, anti-venom, and rope handle.

Cheers Tread :-)
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