Hi all!

Okay, I'm using a two-part epoxy (Devcon five-minute to be exact) and I've found it much easier to use an old Testor's brush to brush it on versus using the little "mixing stick" that's supplied.

Is there any way to clean the brush so I can use it again? I had heard paint thinner, but, uhhhhh, that did not work. Or am I merely left with picking up a couple extra of these inexpensive brushes?

Thoughts, suggestions....??

Thanks!

Mike

denatured alcahol will clean up uncured epoxy but its not worth the hassle to clean brushes better to buy some disposable brushes from the dollar store, or better yet microbrushes ,come in packs of ten for a buck/95 best deal going.

Ditto what John said. Cheaper and easier to just buy cheap brushes.

John, Scott, thanks guys....I had a feeling that would be the case. The brush in question, after soaking in thinner, came out with a "clump" at the end of the bristles. Good ol' #11 removed that and I added some zimmy to the glacias with the same brush....and, ditto...dried like a rock....it's now been consigned to "file 13." I'll hit the LHS later on for some cheapie brushes....figure I have this one KT and one Tiger (P) to do and I'll probably be done (for now with the 2-part).

Again, vielen dank!

Mike

Mike,
I use toothpicks for mixing and craftsticks aka popcicile sticks for spreading it over the larger areas if needed. Easy to use and very cost effective. "Q"

Baby wipes! That's right! The lanoline wipes the epoxy off of the model and your fingers. I've used baby wipes to clean the excess epoxy from wingroot fillings, etc. Dries smooth.

Matt, duh, should have thought about that (only excuse is this is my first time! ).

Fred, "baby wipes???" Oh my.....so simple, so easy..... Trust me, WHEN I can get my fingers unstuck from the upper hull of the KT, I'll use 'em!! Seriously, I'd have never thought of them....but, there'll be a box of 'em on my bench by next weekend!

Thanks guys!

Mike

One of the benefits of epoxy based adhesives is that they are relatively inert when cured. I.e. once hardened, they are very hard to dissolve in almost anyting you care to name. Heat doesn't affect them much and pretty much any thermoplastic will be long gone before you put a serious dent in the epoxy.

In the uncured state, they still don't readily dissolve, but isopropyl alchohol and lacquer thinner are your best bets to clean it off surfaces or fingers. Baby wipes are pretty good, but don't really have much "bite" to them to get any dissolving action going. The wipes themselves, though, hold up under the rubbing action than normal paper towels and they smell nice. :-)

Plus, of course, baby wipe plastic containers are one of the best places to store part built projects while they are "in work". Good size (especially for armour kits), reclosable lid and stackable.

Paul

Something I started doing awhile back in regards to mixing epoxy is using wide blue painters tape as a mixing palette. The wider the better. I tear off a piece and stick it my cutting mat, do what I need to do and when I'm done, I simply peel it up, roll it up and toss in the trash can. I do the same thing when using CA glues too. A single roll has lasted me well over a year and its easy to find. Beats trying to keep a supply of lids, or other associated things on hand. I also use it when doing small paint jobs etc. Hope this helps.
"Q"

Paul is spot-on. I find the wipes good for de-epoxying my digits when it hasn't hardened, and used alchohol to wipe away excess uncured epoxy from the working surface. It worked great, but once I used too much and the epoxy came out of the seam and set as little globulettes. So not much alchohol!