Hi all,

I'm new to scratchbuilding and I'm thinking to make just the wheel for an Italian Pavesi Tractor P4 100, in 1/35 scale. One part of the wheel are the metal 'spikes' which can be folded outwards to give the wheel more grip on the surface. Have a look here for an example :

http://www.landships.freeservers.com/jpegs/pavesi-truck_KEH1.jpg

Each wheel has 10 of these. In 1/35 scale, its about 6mm long (widest spot) and 4 mm thivk, an irregular shape, curved as well, etc...

Does anyone has a tip how these could be replicated in 1/35, which tecnique to use, material, etc..

Manty thanks
Johan

Now!!!---do you really want to do this
----do you really -really want to do this
----do you want to be "certified"
-----do you !!!!!!!

Well!.......get a piece of Evergreen ----8mm x8mm strip ----cut and carve to shape ......1/2 round /round file....will give the curve .......then bore holes to depth and carve /scrape out areas to give "feet "....drill with 0.020" drill for hinge pin --use pice of 0.080"sheet drilled out for other part of hinge ..
then --make a mold and using a resin /car filler --make as many as required
.
Once completed got to Doctor and get pills for mental stress--as you will need when trying to fix to wheels and make work ....Wheels and spokes...should not be attempted until sanity returns

If all else fails --drop me a line and I (burble-burble!! ) will do some drawings for you
Deep Darkness is decending --I can feel the force slipping away!!
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

RUN AWAY Johan! RUN AWAY!

Before the "Dark Side" grips!

Nah mate! go for it!!

Hi All

Thanks for the tip ! You also made me laugh ... sanity is gone already, but I will give it a try nevertheless Thanks for the offer Barv ... i will try it first .. see what happens ...

all the best
Johan

Maybe to keep your sanity, you might want to look into making a master and then pouring white-metal copies. The shape of these "teeth" would work well with this technique.

If you are familiar with pouring "tin" soldiers then this would save a lot of time and effort. If you are not familiar with this, you might want to consider looking into it! It is an overlooked avenue by many a modeller, all you need to do is make sure the metal part is clean, and then zap it with a little super-glue and violà!

Since you are talking of 40 pieces then a plaster of paris mold would work well. My two cents only...

Hello all

so I can either use resin /car filler or pouring white-metal copies. I have not done either of these before. What would be the best in that case ?

thanks for your help
Johan

Give me a "bell" when you are ready to mold and I will walk you through it ---cheapest way ----make a mold using modeling (air hardening ) clay --then car filler --when you set --I am here
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

Hi feldgrau,

after all the lough e,t,c,, you still insist ! Well, I would go for the white metal (actually molten typeletters) solution. I have in the past made many a delicate part this way.
I use a base of plasticine shaped to the original object, drill the necessary hinge hole, pass a pin through extending both sides, make the air and metal channels and oil the whole thing.
Then fence it around with something to the proper height and pour dentist quality plaster. When dry, take the plasticine off, oil it again and pour plaster on the other side. After some 15 minutes you pray and separate the two halves, clean the air and metal channels and remove the plastic prototype leaving the pin in place. After pouring the metal in, you open the mould and remove the pin (should be polished) and you have a ready hole.
All this is easier written than done, but I was feeling like writing,,,,

Well, most of the times it does work. I forgot to point out that a plasticine cone of about 2- 3 times the volume of the object should be put at the end of the metal channel, which after been removed leaves a cone to pour the metal in.
The channels I make by properly placing solder wire cut to proper length, since it forms easily. I may have forgotten some important detail but I'm sure you will fill in the gaps. And for God's sake, don't pour molten metal into a ''fresh" mould.
Always put it in the oven to dry...!!!
Sorry if I sound paternal,

George

PS If you didn't understand anything of the above, it's nothing wrong with you. On the contrary, you should start worrying if you did !.

Thanks for the tips ! George, I need to read your post a few times again I think to grap all the details ! !

In the mean time I carved this little "spike" for the wheel. I needed a left and a right version

all the best
Johan